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Wash and gos "dont work" on Nappy hair

 
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Derri View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Derri Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr 19 2014 at 11:17am
I don't know, i'm still not convinced. For example, low porosity hair would mean the cuticles lay very flat, which would encourage the hair to reflect light very well, no? My hair never shines or have a gloss and oil is very easily absorbed into my hair.

If i apply a heavy oil such as castor oil to my scalp and hair today, but tomorrow most of it will be gone. By day 3 my hair will need more castor oil. It is said that castor oil is not easily absorbed but My hair would say otherwise.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr 19 2014 at 12:01pm
Originally posted by Derri Derri wrote:

I don't know, i'm still not convinced. For example, low porosity hair would mean the cuticles lay very flat, which would encourage the hair to reflect light very well, no? My hair never shines or have a gloss and oil is very easily absorbed into my hair.

If i apply a heavy oil such as castor oil to my scalp and hair today, but tomorrow most of it will be gone. By day 3 my hair will need more castor oil. It is said that castor oil is not easily absorbed but My hair would say otherwise.


The same thing happens to me. The reason castor oil is drying is the same reason glycerin and aloe vera juice, and coconut oil seem to zap quickly. They all have astringent properties.

That would be true if you had a looser texture, for tighter textures you get sheen, not shine. Either way you wont get sheen or shine without moisture retention and proper moisture absorption.

 Also, if your hair was high porous, then the methods you are doing now would be enough. Your hair would retain moisture fine doing what you have been doing now, and should look max hydrated. It's because your hair is low porous that introducing moisture to your hair is not possible using the methods you have been doing now. So even if you seal that moisture in, it is not properly penetrating the hair cortex, and will evaporate.

You wouldn't have frizz because you are using oils and sealants already. That lack of moisture absorption in the cortex causes many of the symptoms of 4c hair. I'm going to post an additional info here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr 19 2014 at 12:21pm
Sheen, not shine



My hair now, treating it like it is low porosity, using methods to open up my cuticle.





Another before picture:


"Hair with a great deal of porosity has been found to be capable of absorbing significantly higher amounts of water than hair or normal or low porosity (up to 55%, in contrast with 31.1% for healthy hair). Excessive absorption of water from the atmosphere causes frizz and tangling on humid days. Total immersion of high porosity hair during bathing, swimming, or shampooing can lead to significant breakage due to loss of elasticity from the sheer weight of the water absorbed. It also takes on color much more quickly and in higher concentrations than normal porosity hair when undergoing a chemical color process."

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/visual-examples-of-textures-and-types-complete_topic326012_page1.html

This would mean your hair gets weighed down with water not just from the outside, but from the inside of the cortex. Your hair would feel gummy when wet a lot of the time, definition would be easier, and would stay wet longer when you seal with heavy butters like you have been now. The castor oil isnt being absorbed, that is it's astringent and humectant properties pulling moisture out of your hair, and then it evaporates. Then, you have a layer of the castor oil still on your hair, castor oil is just not oily in texture because of its astringent properties. It feels dry on its own, after the water is evaporated.



Edited by pinkecube - Apr 19 2014 at 6:02pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Derri Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr 19 2014 at 12:23pm
Castor oil does not dry out my hair.
It absorbs in 2 days but it doesn't make it dry. I like thick heavy oils to make my strands have more slip because they knot and tangle easily.

I also do not manipulate my hair daily and i only wash and condition every 6 weeks or so because I keep my hair in braids under a wig or weave. I do take the wig down evey day and spray my hair with aloe vera juice mixed with olive oil. If my scalp feels dirty i just use a sulfate free shampoo and wash the braids lightly then condition lightly and let it dry then back to the wig.

On the day that I wash and deep condition i do a final condition with porosity control conditioner why makes my hair miraculously untangled, slippery, and i've noticed tbat it takes a longer time to dry as opposed to when i skip this step and my hair dries in 15 mins max.

Hmmmm...i don't know what is happening here.

Edited by Derri - Apr 19 2014 at 12:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr 19 2014 at 12:41pm
Originally posted by Derri Derri wrote:

Castor oil does not dry out my hair.
It absorbs in 2 days but it doesn't make it dry. I like thick heavy oils to make my strands have more slip because they knot and tangle easily.

I also do not manipulate my hair daily and i only wash and condition every 6 weeks or so because I keep my hair in braids under a wig or weave. I do take the wig down evey day and spray my hair with aloe vera juice mixed with olive oil. If my scalp feels dirty i just use a sulfate free shampoo and wash the braids lightly then condition lightly and let it dry then back to the wig.

On the day that I wash and deep condition i do a final condition with porosity control conditioner why makes my hair miraculously untangled, slippery, and i've noticed tbat it takes a longer time to dry as opposed to when i skip this step and my hair dries in 15 mins max.

Hmmmm...i don't know what is happening here.


I didn't mean it makes the hair dry, i mean it feels different in texture. It isn't an oily texture like olive oil or shea butter. It's a drier texture like glycerin. By which i mean it is a less greasy oil. It's still greasy, but not like other oils. Either way your hair will end up dry by the time the water goes away. This can happen the longer you wear the style, and that is how all sealant behave. Oils can only lubricate, seal, and humectify. All of these properties are capable of working against moisture, no matter the oil or sealant. That's why build up is another thing that low porous hair suffers the most.

Castor better at sealing water than veg glycerin because it is thicker, so the evaporation of moisture happens slower, but it still happens. So if the oil isn't penetrating the strand you are only going to get conditioning effect until the wetness evaporates. Slip from oil is not as conditioning as slip from water, which is why you notice better results from DC. Deep conditioning is also in this regimen. I say do a strand test, and also try out this regimen. Just for a week. At the end of the day, it won't be bad to give it a shot.


Edited by pinkecube - Apr 19 2014 at 3:23pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr 19 2014 at 12:51pm
The regimen is all about manipulating your hair's porosity.

 First step Clarify. This step gets rid of build up blocking the hair cuticle from absorbing optimum water. If you choose to do bakingsoda, it lifts the cuticle, getting it prepared for absorption of conditioner.

If you do the acv step, it cleans the build up all the same. Then the cuticle gets lifted via heat by deep conditioning. The next step you deep condition overnight.

The heat from the shower cap opens up your cuticles. You can also steam. If you rather not dc overnight, then you apply watered down warm conditioner to your hair for 10 mins in a cap. But to do that, you have to choose the bakingsoda option, not acv option. Then the third step is cowash, in which you rinse out the DC and detangle as you do it.

After that, bentonite clay rinse. The bentonite clay reopens your cuticle, preparing for the leave in step. Your hair will also be further clarified, and feel super soft and curls will start to pop.

After that, is the leave in step. The watered down conditioner will readily absorb into your hair, and then you seal with a botanical, non drying gel. both the gel and conditioner will be a ph 4-5, so your cuticles will close in this last step as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr 19 2014 at 1:48pm
If you aren't convince, think about it like this. High porous hair cannot be permanently high porous unless it is due to damage. All hair's cuticle lifts out when it is dry and lacking fatty acids, that is part of what frizz actually is, it has nothing to do with your actual porosity, it's about dehydrated hair. Low porosity hair can feel this way even while it is wet. Because the moisture sits on top of the strand.

Frizz especially effects tighter hair since it has less ability to spread sebum down the whole hair strand. We address that issue by putting oils on our hair. But if that was the whole story, it would solve the problem, and you would already be having results that i am getting in the after pictures. But it isn't.

The other part has to do with lack of weight in the hair cortex. No weight = no clumping, and i'm going to explain this thoroughly in my next post below. This is caused by lack of water absorption into the hair strand. Even if you sealed with oil, it wouldn't do anything for you if you didn't have water absorption in the cortex to seal in.

So if your hair was high porous, this would not be a problem for you at all. In fact, you would be able to treat your hair like relaxed hair, and still get the results i am getting now. Your hair would thrive on silicones and sulfates, and build up of proteins and heavy oils including mineral oil. That would be enough and you would have max hydration.


Edited by pinkecube - Apr 19 2014 at 1:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Apr 19 2014 at 1:49pm
Reposting this here:



I already posted this but, take a good look at how compact the curls are. This is 4c hair, not 4a hair, and I never used to get root to tip definition in these areas before, if anything, only the tips would coil, and it would be and even more compact coil, that looked like a tube.


4c hair is the most compact, like a tube. 4a hair you can see spaces between the coil, and it's bigger. Also, when their is weight of product, it can form a big s curl, (not to be confused with the sharper zigzags of 4b hair) where as when 4c hair get weighed down it can look like more of a number 5, or a zigzag. In it's dehydrated state, it has the tendency to form random loopings among individual strands, making it less likely to clump. This is even more so an issue for 4b hair. I actually have some curls near my ear that are even tighter than a pen spring but still clump. As it grows longer and gets more retention it will probably clump better.

A visual of why 4c hair will not clump:

Compare the two strands after being put in water to the ones after being treated with baking-soda. Which one is more likely to want to fit together like a puzzle piece?


http://www.thenaturalhavenbloom.com/2009/11/myth-or-fact-baking-soda-relaxer.html


Under soaked in water, the water likely did not penetrate the strand, just sat on top of it.

After bakingsoda treatment, the water is able to penetrate the strand because the tightly shut cuticles have been opened. This is the only effect baking-soda has on the hair cuticle, it does not change the curl pattern. The intake of water into the hair cortex increases weight of the hair strand, which is what all hair is meant to do in water, but low porosity 4c and 4b hair adamantly resists.

 Once the weight of the water is in the curl, the curl becomes more uniform. It is no longer so lightweight from lack of water retention in the cortex, that each individual strand over springs and loops upon itself randomly, which prevents clumping. The uniform curl that is meant to be there is created, making it easier for curl strand to want to clump together like puzzle pieces.



Edited by pinkecube - Apr 19 2014 at 1:53pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote juniordetective Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 18 2014 at 11:21am
Just would like to point out...I'm type 4a and my hair has never really had an issue with wash n gos...I have always been able to just put some gel on my hair and go. Now, my roots weren't ALWAYS defined, but I would say about 80% of my curl (on an individual curl) was defined. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 18 2014 at 11:26am
Many ppl with 4a are able to wash and goes, its really the 4b 4c community that believes their hair has no curl pattern. Most of this group is low porosity. I mention 4a too because some ppl have mixed textures, and some ppl have low porous 4a hair that tends to not define well either. Some ppl also very kinky but 3c hair. This would depend heavily on porosity. Someone with low porous 4a kinky hair is going to get different results that someone with higher porous 4a hair. Both of which ive seen.


Edited by pinkecube - Jun 18 2014 at 11:29am
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