QuoteReplyTopic: Wash and gos "dont work" on Nappy hair Posted: Feb 23 2014 at 12:46am
There was a video put on youtube called, "Wash and gos don't work on Nappy Hair". Its a parody music video, and it unfortunetly reflects the mindset of a lot of kinky haired girls. My comment that i posted on that video is below:
I don't care if i get called a "natural hair nazi" for saying this, but you don't really know what you're talking about. Not that it is your fault, a lot of naturals and non naturals don't seem to understand this either, and they are also learning from ppl who dont fully understand this. We need to STOP listening to all these youtubers telling us our hair hates what it actually needs and we need to start figuring out what our hair needs. What im about to say is some very important information, so pls take advantage of it-- that goes to anyone who sees this comment.
Let's start with the word "nappy". now dont expect this to be some rant about how the word nappy can be offensive, and blah blah. thats not what this post is about. this post is going to give tangible and useful advice and resources about how to help your hair. kay.
"Nappy" hair equates to frizzy, dry hair. In this sense you are correct, wash and gos wont necessarily come out defined, or "work on nappy hair". A lot of naturals are under the misconception that "nappy" or "frizzy" hair is a hair type (ie. 4c, 4b, 4a, and even 3c). This is incorrect, and a lot of us are not taking advantage of an extremely important aspect to our haircare that needs to be addressed, and mastered, because we believe our hair is just supposed to be frizzy and dry, like moisture isn't something we adjust in our regimines techniques and products, but we are supposed to just accept our dry hair as being dry and do nothing to manage it. this is partially because many of us still do not understand how our hair works, what our hair wants, and that are hair may not like certain products, and basically dont know how to get moisture into their hair shaft.
lets rearrange our thinking first. Frizzy, dry hair is not a hair type. It is a CONDITION of the hair that can be combatted and overcome by building up the moisture retention levels in your hair shaft to eventually reach MAXIMUM CURL HYDRATION. (Not moisture overload) Essentially, "nappy" hair can and does effect everyone, no matter the curl type/size. It is mainly the porosity and tightness of your curls that determine the level of frizziness, and how sensitive your hair is to products and practices that take/prevent moisture from getting in the hair shaft. These variables can be controlled, basically by being aware of what your hair does and doesnt like.
Everyone, no matter the curl size, type, initial dryness, frizziness level, and porosity can get maximumly hydrated hair. And this is the part where you and many other naturals especially tightly curled ones (yes, ur hair is curly, thats why u have shrinkage) are ironically miseducated and unaware of. Curly hair LOVES wash and gos. Not only that, but it they are one of the best things you can do to overcome "nappy" hair. Now dont stop reading yet, bc this is a Serious breakthrough i am going to provide you if ur lucky enough to get this far.
Yes, ALL natural hair loves wash and gos. Specifically, the curly girl method, aka the CG method. The irony is, the nappiest hair will benefit the most from the cg method and wash and gos, as our hair starts off with the lowest moisture retention levels, and the most dryness and coarseness. A lot of naturals who call their hair 4a/b/c also have low porosity hair, and they dont realize just how sensitive their hair is to drying products and factors. An example of that, is if you find that youre doing a wash and go and have excessive of white residue that takes a long time to disappear, its likely your hair shaft isnt absorbing the moisture at all. Why? Bc you have low porosity hair and your cuticles are shut tight majority of the time.
Anyway, not gonna get to deep into specific techniques(ie warming conditioner), because im going to direct you to a few youtubers who have literally TRANSFORMED their "nappy" hair into maximumly hydrated curls that pop. Not "looser curls". HYDRATED curls. They can pop and still remain unalterted in shape and curlsize(not counting factors like hair length increasing size of curls overtime) and be defined to the point where even without any product your curls can pop from root to tip. Not lying.
The curly girl method is the perfect method for naturally curly hair, and therefore wash and gos are the perfect method for curly hair. The cg method builds up moisture retention levels in the hair overtime until you reach max hydration. The amount of time that takes can be impaired like i said before by practices and products that steal moisture from the hair and dont allow it in. Another example is lowporosity hair hates drying proteins, heavy butters, glycerin, and most things that close or coat the cuticle including cold water and silicones. Your hair definetly does not like ecostyler gel. Aside from that max hydration could be acheived from a week to a month once youve perfected your regimine. Luckily your experimentation can be shortcutted below-- YOUTUBERS THAT HAVE TRANSFORMED THEIR kinky HAIR by using the curly girl method and idenifying properly and getting rid of drying factors:
The first two youtubers give a lot of valuable information about their regimines, what products and techniques they use, and their journeys to max hydration and healthy hair.
Btw, another misconception ppl have about "nappy" hair is that when you do wash and goes, your hair has a higher propensity to get knots. In actuality, twist outs and braidouts can do more harm than a proper wash and go in that sense. akedafitgirl explains that at the end of her video, "gel in natural hair and styling preference". this is not to suggest that you cant do those styles, or that you cant go for a fluffier, voluminous, and afro look. the whole point of this is to show that with max hydration, it will just be a style preference, not something you feel forced to do because you have no choice and cant manage your hair. max hydration increases managability of hair immensely, to the point where you can actually improve the results of your setting styles, make them last longer because they wont be losing moisture as quickly, and at that point you wont get as many tangles and knots when it comes time to detangle. what im stressing is reach max hydration first b4 doing those styles.
Anyway, kinky hair girls, take the time to learn more truths about your hair and what it needs. Youll be surprised in the misconceptions you had and the changes that will take place with an open mind.
Goodluck and sorry this was so long (i might post this on a natural hair forum too. More ppl need to see this. Its time to debunk this myth that too many naturals are falling for based on their prejudices and misconceptions about their hair)
When they naturals say their hair was " TRANSFORMED" by curly girl technique, they do not mean it changed from 4c to curly hair. They are saying something more along the lines of it becoming more healthy. A KINK can NOT look like a curl just by defining it. It will still be a defined kink. In order to get a kink (4a/b/c) to be a curl (3a/b/c), you need to slightly loosen the texture AND define it more as well.. So something along the lines of a mild texlax. The curly girl techniques DO NOT LOOSEN THE CURL PATTERN AT ALL. In fact they tighten them a little bit.
In order to try to achieve what you're trying to do to get a wash n go with 4 type hair you will have to loosen the texture some with a natural texlax. Using Bragg Liquid Aminos in the Cherry Lola treatment is one techniques that helps a little. Another is doing a Coconut LIME treatment EVERY TIME before you co wash or cleanse your hair
Discover this technique of temporarily elongate and define natural hair with no damage to the hair structure
If you have natural black hair chances are that you are already in love with your texture and wouldn’t change it for the world. As well it should be!
But like anyone else, you don’t mind the occasional bout of ‘the grass is greener on the other side’ and would like to change your look temporarily.
If you have natural very curly/kinky hair, particularly 4a/b hair types, you will appreciate that it will take more heat to get ‘relaxer straight’ results when you flat iron your hair.
The downfall of using too much heat on your hair is that it may damage it irreparably i.e. burn it straight! Nobody wants to risk the health of their hair for the sake of straight locks for a week. An alternative is required.
This is where the coconut and lime ‘relaxer’ could help you. The ‘straightening’ effect achieved is most noticeable in slightly wavy hair.
In African American (black) hair, the results are more subtle and with continued application, it results in loosening or elongating the curl pattern which makes heat styling much easier.
This technique is by no means new; it has been used for years by Asian women to straighten their curly hair safely without the use of chemicals.
The original recipe involves mixing coconut juice with the lime juice and leaving in the fridge overnight until a cream forms on top. This cream is then applied to the hair and left for a few hours then rinsed off. The remainder of the mixture is then discarded.
The main issue with this recipe is that even though the coconut milk with solidify slightly when put in the fridge, the natural heat from your body once applied to the hair will make it runny again and you may find that a lot of the treatment will end up running down your face and neck! Another problem is the wastage involved as only a small percentage of the coconut milk is being used.
The recipe below is a version of the original allowing both for the dryness of natural black hair with minimum wastage of the ingredients. Here’s how to make the treatment:
Empty the coconut milk into a saucepan add the extra virgin olive oil and whisk until well blended.
Coconut milk varies in consistency by brand so depending on how thin the mixture in the saucepan is, add 2-3 tablespoons in a separate bowl and mix this with the lime juice until the mixture is lump free then add to the coconut milk & olive oil mixture.
Put the saucepan over a medium heat whisking constantly. The purpose is not to cook the mixture but to activate the cornstarch which will thicken the mixture to a ‘conditioner’ type consistency.
This should take a couple of minutes. If you find the mixture is still too thin then add a bit more cornstarch or if you get a brand of coconut milk that that is very thick to begin with, you may omit the corn starch altogether.
Apply the mixture to your hair in sections to ensure it is evenly covered. Cover with a plastic cap then under a steam cap for ½ hour to an hour.
Depending on the length and thickness of you hair, the mixture will be enough for 1-2 applications. Place any remaining treatment into a plastic jar/container and freeze until you require it next.
Proceed to shampoo the mixture out of your hair thoroughly then proceed to deep condition as usual with an ultra moisturizing conditioner. Remember, the final rinse should be done with cold/lukewarm water to close the hair cuticles and seal in the moisture.
Roller set your hair with only a glycerin containing product like S Curl along with some heat protectant for the softest results. Sit under a dryer for up to 90 minutes or until the hair is thoroughly dry. To complete the look flat iron the hair in sections with one swipe on a medium heat (you will not need much heat to get your hair straight). Style as desired.
Do not expect to see your texture transformed the first time you use this. If you are in the 4s, you will have to do this before EVERY WASH for at least a month or two to see any noticeable change. And then you will have to continue doing it as a part of regular maintenance if you want to keep it looser.
I totally disagree with the article about flat ironing hair that you've put glycerin in. That will FRY the hair because glycerine does not allow the hair to dry. So ignore that part at the end about flat ironing it if you are going to put glycerin in it. Do one or the other. But the Cherry Lola Treatment combined with the Coconut LIME treatment outlined above will help you to elongate and define your kinks into somewhat of a curl so you can do a wash and go as you would like. Results are very subtle on tight 4b/c hair so you will need to do it every wash to eventually see some loosening into curls. But again the curly girl technique will not turn kinks into curls. In fact, her technique is designed mainly for white women with slightly curly hair who want to make it TIGHTER or nappier.
I don't think wash and go is only exclusive to those of a looser curl pattern at all. But for me wash and gos aren't ideal for me. I hate having wet hair and it seems to make my hair more tangled but I do not discourage anyone trying it.
i dont particularly agree that cherry lola treatments "loosen" the hair texture. what happens is the baking soda lifts the cuticle temporarily to allow better absorption of moisture into the hair. its the fact that the moisture can more readily get into the hair shaft that you can reach higher moisture retention with this diy treatment. but it does NOT change your natural curl pattern or curl size in anyway. it does help eliminate frizz that prevents curls from popping. adding these treatments along with a cg Regime will even further transform your hair. but there is no such thing a loosening your curl pattern in regards to moisture. you hair can appear loosened, due to increased weight of hair from length and products, but it is not actually altered in structure. pls do check out the you tubers(danabnatural, akedafitgirl, rachaelcpr, and curlykelz) i mentioned. their hair is very moisturized and their tight coils, curls and zigzags get definition even without product, because they have built up the moisture retention in there hair and have max hydration.
also, pls dont purport glyceryn to be good for every zigzag/coil's hair. a lot of naturals with this hair type cannot tolerate glycerin. in their hair. especially if they live in a dry climate or use it during the winter, glycerin is one of those factors that you have to identify because it can be preventing increased moisture retention in lowporosity zigzag, or coiled hair. same goes with coconut oil kr coconut milk, if you are protein sensitive your hair could be drying out faster from use.
cherry lola treatments are okay, bc yogurt is a light protein. however, for increased moisture you can follow this recipe: (i will edit it in asap) basically it combines both the cherry lola treatment and caramel treatment. your hair feels incredibly soft upon rinsing out, and of course you dont have to include egg in the ingredriendients but it did not effect my personal results of extremely noticable hydration that HAS indeed lasted.
@Narsaddict i also wanted to mention, the reason ppl have single strand knots and tangles in wash and gos, is because their hair isnt properly clumped. clumping come easily and automatically one max hydration is reached. to the point where even without product, your hair, even 4c can have noticeable definition. if you find you have a lot of sections that arent clumping together into organized curl units, those hairs are at risk of tangling, and that is simply another result of dry hair. pls watch aketafitgirl's video, gels in natural hair and styling preference, and rachaelcpr's tangle free wash and go hair.
@ladyaradia i'm going to address the last sentence in your paragraph, because thisis why so many naturals are and stay deceived.tight curls are NOT equivalent to nappy hair. tight/zigzag curls are a curl pattern/type, nappy hair is a condition of dryness and frizziness in the hair that occurs when your hair shaft is not recieving or not recieving enough moisture. the basis of the curly girl method is the best strategy you can do to improve hydration in your curls. the 1 to two week dehydrated styles are not going to do the best to benifit these extremely dry course hair conditions, and ziggy coiled hair types. this is even if you spritz your hair. it is NOT ENOUGH. YOU NEED TO REWET YOUR HAIR AT LEAST EVERY 3 DAYS. also your regimines should not be based off of getting a particular curl pattern or style, your priority should be to get moisture retention levels as high as possible, and THEN you can do all those styles with more ease.
I put this in big letters because until naturals understand and accept this fact, they are going to be blocking themselves off from beneficial haircare and regimens. you said something along the lines of, the curlygirl method is design mainly for white women, and will not work for tightly coiled hair. you also said the curly gurl method will make tightly coiled hair tighter. lastly, i wanted to address the comment you made about cherry lola treatments not noticeably working on 4c hair. i'm going to be very thorough with my explanations in this now because i believe i was giving too vague an idea of what i was talking about which is why you misconstrued it with some of your presumptions. It's time to step away from these presumptions and consider what i'm saying, because this will change the lives of many tightly coiled and zigzaged natural's hair. and please read this with an open mind, because there are sooo many misunderstandings with WHY our hair does what it does, and it needs to be corrected. like i said b4, check out danabnatural, aketafitgirl rachaelcpr and curlykelz on youtube. a visual example about just how dramatic the cg methods effects are on kinky hair will help debunk a lot of the myths you've been going by as fact.
in a way you are both wrong and right. everyone's hair is different, and following the curly girl method straight from devachan products and sight is not going to work for most kinky naturals. but too many people are brainwashed that looser curl pattern automatically means moisturized silky hair. I've seen enough natural with big loose curls that still look nappy to know that means nothing. people have to find the products that work for their hair, to make the cg method work for them. this is why i directed you to kinkycoiled low porosity youtubers who used to have "nappy hair" but transformed their hair with consistent cg regimines and by making the cg method work for them. don't assume what i mean, just look at their channels and see for yourself how their hair as evolved overtime, as their methods, and regimens evolved.
a lot of naturals have not succeded with the curly girl method, simply because they have not IDENTIFIED and ELIMINATEDproducts and factors from their regimen that their hair did not benefit from. this is taking a significant amount of the moisture impact away fromn their hair. No matter what type of treatments you put on your hair, you wont get the benefit until you change the parts of your regimine that are taking away moisture and replace them with products that dont do that. its more than just hair feeling soft. hair can feel soft but have no springback or moisture. moisture NEEDS to be in the hair shaft to get definition. this is NOT about loosening curls, this is about revealing the curls you have underneath all the frizz. this is a major roadblock for naturals who wont face this and find themselves having inconsistent success or no sucess at all in your hair journeys.
pls, watch this:
it explains that there are factors that take away moisture in your low porosity hair. im GIVING you these factors on a platter, there is a lot involved that alot of naturals dont think about. but then they dont expect their hair to curl or show any sign of moisture, and think its alright based only on one factor, which is softness. you hair needs the most water.
FACTORS THAT DRY OUT THE HAIR include over stretching the amount of time you keep styles in. this causes the dryness, tangles, etc. aketafitgirl talks about this on youtube.
another factor is protein. you've got protein gels, conditioners and ignorant and excessive use of protein, when many low porosity hair girls just DO NOT NEED IT. the worse part is they dont realize that using products with protein often closes and blocks the cuticle for you. even when a low porosity girls hair cuticle is open it isnt that wide. protein-- that includes hydrolyzed wheat protein (which is in a lot of gels 4c girls, whos hair has the lowest porosity, use religiously and then wonder why their hair is dry), coconut oil, silk proteins, etc. some people cant even handle the protein in aloe vera juice (not that they know) and then wonder why their hair feels moisturized at first, then dries out quickly, they cant retain styles, they have frizz, and chronically dried out hair. this is because you all are not getting rid of these products.
another thing that takes away from moisture in the shaft/prevents it from getting it is the PH of treatments and products you are using. some ppls hair likes acv rinses. some ppl do not benefit from that. acv cleanses the hair which is important, to get buildup off that scalp and hair that hinders moisture, but it can also be unnecessary because it closes the hair cuticle. there are other cleanses like bentonite clay rinses that can get that the dirt off your hair, not strip moisture, and not close the cuticle. that way when you rinse it out later, you hair can actually get hydrated from rinsing. this is what danabnatural on youtube did. her hair changed from nappier, frizzier and chronically dry CONDITION, to a silkier, moisturized condition. but her curl structure in NO WAY has loosened. This is because like i said before, Nappy hair is a CONDITION of hair, not a curl pattern or hair type.
Your propensity to get frizz are effected by how easily your hair loses moisture, but it is possible to build up those levels of moisture and retain it over time. This will in turn, eliminate frizz and chronic dryness, increase the manageability and softness of your hair, and give you optimal hair health. That's right, as you reach maximum hydration your hair will be extremely easy to manage, detangling and EVERYTHING. this is because EVERY ASPECT IS CONTROLLED BY MOISTURE. The science of black hair in combination with the curly girl method will help you identify things that you need to do in your regimen to make the curly girl method work for you. It in no way has to be complicated, once you have the information you need, perfect your regimen, and get these inaccurate ideas out of your head it is very simple concepts. its the same curls, just now you can see them VERY clearly, her hair has bounce, shake and weight to it, which is a completely different state from what it was before.
another thing that steals moisture is your general cg rules, sulfates, silicones, and denatured alcohol. duh. aubrey organics has changed their formula and it now included denature alcohol. danabnaturals noticed the drying effect of it on her hair.
i cant finish this whole post yet, bc i need to head out real quick. part 2 will b later
Here are before an after videos of chronically dry naturals that i mentioned are available on youtube:
AFTER MAXIMUM CURL HYDRATION:
BEFORE MAX HYDRATION
AFTER MAXIMUM HYDRATION:
HERE IS CURLY KELZ (4C HAIR)
her hair's condition is not some special hair type. her hair type is the size of her curls, and she refers to herself as fractile 4c. her hair was typical 4c hair before-- dry, difficult to manage, etc. Her hairs condition is well hydrated, and it is an acheivable look for anyone. Her regime isnt perfect, but just adopting basic aspects of the cg method, and identifying some if not most of the drying factors of her hair has greatly improved her hair's health
I agree that video was ignorant and that girl didn't know how to care for her hair properly. Being a 4c she expected to do what a 3b does (or not even that much) and get the same results that 3b curls would. In short, she should have taken smaller sections and had reasonable expectations for how her hair would turn out.
I would have to read the rest of your comments on maximum hydration more closely to speak intelligently on them.
I was unable to edit the post from up top, but the caramel-lola treatment is as follows:
Ingredients: Greek yogurt (2 cups) Baking soda (2 tbsp) Organic apple cider vinegar (2 tbsp) Raw coconut aminos(or just regular aminos, but i personally didn't like soy in my hair) (2 tbsp) Raw honey (1/2 tbsp) Unsulfured molasses (1 tbsp) Half an over ripe plantain or banana Avocado (3/4 tbsp) 1 egg (optional)
blend the ingredients in your blender. saturate your dry (but detangled) hair completely from root to tip with the mixture. put a shower cap and let sit for 1.5-2 hours. Rinse out completely with warm/hot water. co wash with botanical/cg friendly conditioner. ( whatever you wash your hair with will be absorbed into the hair shaft, so no silicones, parabens, sulfates, drying denatured alcohol) apply more conditioner but leave it in. seal with botanical gel
I believe this treatment can be done as frequently as every 2 weeks.
The regimen that Mahogany Curls and the other ladies are speaking of: Maximum Hydration is interesting.
I watched some of the videos, and had to rewind on some of them to take notes.
Co wash first 1/2 and 1/2 of ACV and water (spritz sections of hair keep on for up to 60 mins.) w/shower cap on.
Conditioner in 4 sections (detangle work from root to tip) Rinse
(Deep Condition on the Weekends with Conditioner of choice) Rinse
Apparently, the youtuber loves Terressentials.
add leave in conditioner
styling product (Kinky Curly Custard) preference.
So i guess it's the ACV for 1 hour that truly opens up the shaft, lets the conditioner in, and moisturizes the hair shaft?
be honest, i like what the ladies are saying, but MAN, they are all
over the place. Even some of the youtube comments are saying: Just get
to the point, there's waaay to much talking. Specifically a Mahogany
I know they are excited.. and happy. It's an absolute break through just hearing about this.
I absolutely believed that 4c hair was only meant for bunning, and that's it.
Edited by femmemuscleisback - Feb 24 2014 at 7:44pm
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