Are Dominique Ansel's Chocolate Chip Cookie Milk Shots Worth the Wait?
|All photos by Billy Lyons|
|Ansel's latest creation, the chocolate chip cookie milk shot|
Ansel's cronut was so successful, he could have built a fleet of shops
dedicated to just that sweet and ridden the mania he created straight
into retirement. Instead, he continues to work to change the public
perception of pastry, and last week, he debuted a new line-inspiring,
madcap creation: the chocolate chip cookie milk shot.
This "after school" special is available at his tiny Soho bakery
beginning at 3 p.m. each day, and the brilliance of the sweet lies not
only in taste, but in the awkwardness of watching people trying to eat
the cookie with dignity and grace.
This is not an average -- or even above average -- cookie. Ansel uses
rich Valrhona chocolate as an inner shell; the outer layer is a mix of
crunchy brown sugar and more chocolate. It's buttery, rich, and
well-textured: soft enough to break apart with a little pressure from
your thumb and index finger, yet sturdy enough to grasp gently in your
hand while taking a selfie. The milk, poured from a teapot that's
chilling on ice, is imbued with a touch of vanilla and sugar. If you eat
two, you're going to reach your limit. Thankfully, Ansel offers a
package of six in a to-go box, sold with a container of milk and helpful
instructions from the staff on how to chill and serve this treat at
It would be useful if that staff also gave some instruction on how to
consume this cookie. If you suck down the milk in one fell swoop as it
if were a shot of tequila, you risk leaving your throat in need of
hydration once you polish off the cookie about two seconds later. If you
could employ the sip and nibble approach, your cup might become soggy
toward the bottom. Most effective is to take generous bites and follow
with a quick dash of milk. You may still have to deal with a few
crumbling shards of dessert, but that's what napkins are for. Extra
points, though, if you shotgun from the bottom or try to stuff the whole
thing in your mouth at once. Let us know how that works out.
And for those of you wondering whether you should go join the line,
know this: I spent more than an hour waiting for the cookie the day it
debuted only to come up short (as with the cronut, Ansel's making a
limited quantity each day). And so I waited again this week. It was
worth the lost afternoon.
|The line on day one stretched around the corner|
|Let's just say other pastries here don't get their own sign|
|Milk sits in a teapot on ice, ready to be poured for giddy customers|
|Shots come in two per order, though you can get a box of six to go, container of milk included|