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Needing Routine Advice! Research & needing help!

 
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Ladidadi View Drop Down
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    Posted: Apr 29 2014 at 12:05pm
Hi I'm a bit of a lurker, of course!

I decided to actually make a screen name and post because I have no idea how to take care of my own hair. I come from a mother, whose mother didn't take care of her hair. So we are learning as we go. What I am looking for is for someone to make me a routine specialized for my hair type and severe hair issues. Before you tell me to do my research on this forum, I HAVE. I have done my research but of course everyone is unique and I wanted to get personalized advice from people! This forum is quite overwhelming with information and all of this is quite confusing and I honestly don't know where to start. Like I said before, hair care doesn't run in my family.

Here's a quick run down on my hair stats! - ?

Hair type:? more 4a then 3c and individual cuticles are thin.
Shampoo:? recently stopped using!
Conditioner:? Mixed Chicks
Leave in:? Mixed chicks or Kinky curly
Heat protectant:? Got2 be and Chi.
Other products:? Cantu shea butter leave in repair cream, shea moisture mist.
Normal style:? always in a ponytail!

What's going on with hair? ?

I general I have severe breakage, heat damage and excess dryness. Every strand on my head is possibly a different length, that is how severe my breakage is. There is always tons of little inch length breakage when I straighten my hair which I tend to only do every other week. I usually finger comb when washing, but the tangles get so out of control I am inclined to comb! This results in me just ripping my hair out in frustration. My hair tangles way too easily. My hair also always looks and feels dry despite product on my hands when I pull away?!

I try to moisturize each day but I get frustrated when nothing seems to make a difference. I'm assuming my hair is the type that allows moisture to go in and out freely? I do seal with oil, occasionally coconut oil which my hair seems to be in love with. However although coconut oil is having a love affair with my hair, my hair at the end of the day (not literally at the end of the day just in general) is breaking off and being dry!! I don't do any routine I just attempt to moisturize with water, seal and then the repair cream daily. I don't do any hot oil treatments etc.

What I want is healthy hair with normal hair shedding and no breakage! My hair is natural and I dream of waist length healthy hair!

What is a girl to do? Any routine advice?
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BronxJazzy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BronxJazzy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 02 2014 at 3:03am
You probably aren't getting the benefits from your deep conditioner. I use myhoneychild honey hair mask or coconut papaya hair paste. They both are moisturizing with no protein. I also really like aubrey organics gpb for protein and honeysuckle rose for moisture.

You're using the cantu as a moisturizer but it has protein in it. It may be too much for your natural hair. So I would suggest using your leave in as a moisturizer. 

Stop using heat so much. Your hair is already damaged. The last thing it needs is heat. Try to go without it until your hair is in better condition. 

If you want to use a shampoo use an all natural shampoo bar like chagrin valley shampoo bars. They're great and don't strip the hair. 

If you don't want to use a shampoo at least use a cleansing conditioner. You need to get the buildup off your hair and start fresh. So a shampoo would be best. 

Prepoo and deep condition with every wash. 
Apply your leave in and seal with an oil or butter.
Then moisturize and seal whenever your hair needs it. 

If you have a good deep conditioner you'll find you won't need to do it as often. 
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pinkecube View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 02 2014 at 8:54am
Hi, it sounds like you have low porosity hair. Its more likely that instead of the moisture getting in and escaping, the moisture is actually not getting into your hair at all, just sitting on top and evaporating.

Like the other user said, stop using heat. You have fine hair, so you will get heat damage easily. I have experience with that personally. As for the breakage, it definitely sounds like your hair is so dry, that it lacks elasticity. This would cause you to have a lot of rips when you detangle in the shower. Stay away from protein and products that act like protein, like coconut oil. Low porosity hair hates that.

 Secondly, stop using the comb. What you need is a conditioner that has a lot of slip and is very thick. I recommend kinky curly knot today or trader joes tea tree tingle. Detangle your hair in thin horizontal sections clipping other hair out of the way as you move up your head. Smooth, pinch, rake, separate, and handle you hair gently.

I remember looking up the mixed chicks conditioner a while back, i think it has glycerin, but i will double check. Many ppl who live in dry climates just can't use glycerin, it pulls moisture out of the hair, and it has natural astringent properties. As for your leavein, which kinky curly product are you using? Is it the spray of the conditioner. The conditioner would make a better leave in.

like the other user said, just because you use a leave in conditioner doesn't mean you are finished yet. you need to be sealing in that moisture, or else it will just evaporate with out your hair having benefited from it. So don't end your routine at just a leave in. Since you also have low porosity hair, you will need to make methods of opening your cuticle before you deposit moisture. Otherwise your hair isn't going to be moisturized.

Look at this regimen the Max hydration Method

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/the-max-hydration-methodfrom-my-other-post_topic368937_page1.html

It is specially created for type 4 low porosity hair. You would probably make a dramatic turn around in a week doing this method for the first 7 consecutive days, since your curl pattern is looser. After that you can stretch the regimen 1-3 days or twice a week.

Let me write some steps i recommend for you:

Night

Step 1. Baking soda mixture(above) leave in hair 30 mins - 1 hour. This btw will not strip the hair or change the texture. baking soda doesn't have the chemical ability to alter the curl pattern, it just temporarily lifts the cuticle.
Step 2. Deep condition with the watered down conditioner mixture Go to sleep.

Morning

Step 2: Continuation. Finger detangle your hair in sections as you rinse out the conditioner from the night b4. You should have enough slip to do so, and your hair will be soft and pliable.

Step 3: Bentonite clay step. Mix about 1 cup on bentonite clay, 1.5- 2 cups of water, and a tablespoon of honey, a tablespoon of olive oil. Any oil will actually work-- just stay away from glycerin and coconut oil.

As you go along, section by section(section your hair in horizintal rows, starting from the nape and smooth/pinch and rake/separate so that the product gets evenly distributed from root to tip. The reason you do these steps section by section, is so the conditioner doesn't dry up before you seal it with gel, rather then applying conditioner to your whole head, and then applying the gel after. Total time: 25-35 minutes :

Step 4. Leave in conditioner. This will be the same conditioner you use in all steps. It will be watered down the same way. Smooth it in root to tip, especially ends.

Step 5. Gel. Apply MHM approved gel as you go section by section. Smooth, rake, pinch, separate. As if you were finger detangling. Finger coiling will not be necessary.


Second day hair(after first 7 daily applications of regimen). rewet and shake. Will look exactly like first day hair.


What happens when you do the regimen:

  • Root to tip definition ON PRODUCT FREE HAIR
  • Root to tip definition in wash and gos
  • Moveable shakable hair, even when dry
  • Hair feels softer even when dry without product
  • Length retention, easily
  • Less breakage
  • Set styles last longer and come out more defined and easy to separate
  • Soft, pliable hair
  • Detangling is easier
  • single strand knots & split ends rarely occur
  • all Styling is much faster




Edited by pinkecube - May 02 2014 at 9:06am
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pinkecube View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 02 2014 at 9:05am
alright, i looked up mixed chicks. It's got glycerin, salts, and a bunch of silicones which is probably further agitating your low porosity hair and making it dry and disrupting your hair's elasticity by plasticizing your hair. You need to shampoo once more before starting the method. But no more mixed chicks.
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Ladidadi View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Ladidadi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul 23 2014 at 3:09pm
First off I want to thank you both for giving me advice!

Pinke I looked up the maximum hydration method and actually just added you on Instagram recently! Anyways, I really am super excited to try this! I have a few questions, things to clear up!

I was using the kinky curly knot today. It worked pretty good on my hair, in fact I loved it but I switched to the mixed chicks because I got more product out of it. Also, you didn't mention my use of the cantu shea butter I don't think. What if the cantu shea butter has made my hair look and feel stronger than ever before with constant use? Should I just use this sparingly or toss it all together? Also you say not to use coconut oil which breaks my heart. What are your suggested oils for effective sealing?

I'm pretty clear on the method but why do we water down the conditioner? I'm just curious! And as for the gel, I read that you're not suppose to let the conditioner dry before applying the gel. Is that true?

Lastly, right now I am wearing a weave. Should I just be using the water down mixture on my hair as a daily moisturizer? And even without the weave, I'm assuming to just use knot today as my daily moisturizer?

Thanks again ladies!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul 24 2014 at 7:38pm
Originally posted by Ladidadi Ladidadi wrote:

First off I want to thank you both for giving me advice!

Pinke I looked up the maximum hydration method and actually just added you on Instagram recently! Anyways, I really am super excited to try this! I have a few questions, things to clear up!

I was using the kinky curly knot today. It worked pretty good on my hair, in fact I loved it but I switched to the mixed chicks because I got more product out of it. Also, you didn't mention my use of the cantu shea butter I don't think. What if the cantu shea butter has made my hair look and feel stronger than ever before with constant use? Should I just use this sparingly or toss it all together? Also you say not to use coconut oil which breaks my heart. What are your suggested oils for effective sealing?

I'm pretty clear on the method but why do we water down the conditioner? I'm just curious! And as for the gel, I read that you're not suppose to let the conditioner dry before applying the gel. Is that true?

Lastly, right now I am wearing a weave. Should I just be using the water down mixture on my hair as a daily moisturizer? And even without the weave, I'm assuming to just use knot today as my daily moisturizer?

Thanks again ladies!

Hi Ladidadi, that's great glad you'll be trying it! Okay I wouldn't recommend the cantu. It's one of those products with non-ideal ingredients that can give a short term result but hinder the long term changes. I will add though if you find it is working, that depends on you. After all you have 3c/4a hair and there are going to be some products your hair will have a higher toleration for, that i can't recommend to 4c/4b naturals. Just know that if you do have any issues or setbacks trying the regimen, that it is one of the things you should keep an eye out for to try and troubleshoot the cause. It would be something I still used sparingly. I recommend pretty much any light oil except coconut oil, glycerin, and heavy butters need to be used very sparingly, possibly diluted with a lighter oil if possible. I also recommend castor oil as well.

 Yes, you want to let your hair be soaking wet. In fact right after the clay step you can apply the conditioner(watered down) all over your wet hair, and then run more water on it. Then immediately apply gel and make sure your hair remains wet as you apply it. Then shake your hair. We water down the conditioner because it basically saves product, and allows it to spread better. It really doesn't make a difference in the effectiveness, especially as your hair gets more hydrated.

 Yes, you can use the watered down knot today as a moisturizer, but I do not think it is going to make much of a difference in a weave. You need to be able to clarify your hair in order for the moisture to actually absorb into your hair shaft. Likely when you installed the weave your hair was already moisturized and sealed. Any moisture you apply now is basically going to sit wet on your layer of oil(or whatever you sealed with) on your closed hair cuticles and then evaporate. This is especially true to those of us with low porosity hair. Same with "daily moisturizing" (like respritzing or refreshing?) you can refresh your hair by wetting it quickly with water and shaking, or spritzing with water. But it really isn't going to moisturize your hair in the sense it isn't going to be absorbed once you have sealed your hair. You're welcome, glad you have you apart of this journey to max hydration.Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ladidadi Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jul 27 2014 at 6:06pm
Thank you guys so much!!

Pinke is there any suggestions you could give for those wearing weaves as a protective style?
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