You're welcome chick!
Before You Start:
∑ Before setting, always imagine/picture how you want your final result to look. Do you want high volume or low volume? Lots of tight curls, or big, loose waves with lots of body and movement???
∑ Also, think about directions. Do you want your hair to fall onto your face, or off??? All going back, or with a middle or side part? Place the rollers to achieve it.
The setting product you need will depend on how firm you want the hold, and how you want the curls to look. I always like mixing a tiny amount of light hold products with medium or maximum hold products to soften the set.
MY FAVORITE PRODUCTS:
Kerastase Ciment Thermique
Kerastase Oleo-Relax Serum
Kerastase Lait NutriSculpt
∑ For sets with staying power/strong hold, use a product labeled setting/wrapping lotion, mousses, etc.
∑ Medium Hold products are usually glazes. They are generally clear and runny in consistency (not gels). Most foams provide medium hold as well. Some products to consider are: Paul Mitchell Super Sculpt Glaze and Paul Mitchell Hair Sculpting Lotion. They will give you a flexible hold.
∑ Light hold products are generally creamy. Try Kerastase Lait NutriSculpt, Kerastase Creme Nutri Sculpt, Paul Mitchell Foaming Pomade. Remember not to use too much,as you donít want a greasy oily set.
∑ Lottabody can be used, and the strength of it will depend on what ratio of dilution you use.
∑ For soft, sleek sets with lots of body and movement, use a leave-in and/or serum. Try Kerastase Ciment Thermique, Kerastase Nectar Thermique, Lacio Lacio or Salerm 21 as a leave-in, or Kerastase Oleo Relax Serum (Absolute Fave), Paul Mitchell Super Skinny, Chi Silk Infusion, or Phytolisse for a serum. But remember, these tend to be greasy, so do not go overboard.
∑ You can use a combination of products of different strength. Play around and find a formula that works for your hair.
However, whichever product or combination you choose, go easy on the amount!!!! Too much will way the hair down and give you a greasy, stiff, limp set. You want it to be light, soft, and bouncy!!! Less is more in this case. Oh, and stay away from oil!!!
∑ When sectioning, the thickness of your partings should be no bigger than the diameter of your roller, and the length of the partings should be no longer than the length of the roller.
∑ Use a fine tooth comb AFTER hair has been detangled to smooth the section you are about to roll, and then roll tightly. (I can not stress this enough!)
∑ The bigger the rollers, the more volume, but less curl
∑ Lots of small rollers will give more curl and more fullness
∑ Lots of large rollers will give more fullness
∑ A few large rollers will give some fullness and shape
Roller placement in extremely important. The position in which the roller sits against the scalp is a direct result of the direction/angle in which you comb and hold the hair sections.
∑ For maximum volume, you will need to roll the hair at an angle over 90 degrees (on base). Pulling the hair forward, or if facing a mirror, towards the mirror. This is also called over-directing.
∑ For medium volume, roll the hair at a 90 degree angle (half off base), which would be holding the hair straight-out.
∑ And for low volume, roll under a 90 degree angle (off base). Pulling the hair back, or away from the mirror.
∑ For flat bottoms/backs, roll the back from a 0 degree (straight down) to a 45 degree mid-way, between straight down and straight out) angle.
∑ Off Base:- Describes final position of roller during roller set. Strand is held at 70 degrees so that curl is placed off its base. When a roller is placed Off Base, there will be end curl and little or no lift.
∑ On Base:- Describes final position of roller or perm rod. Strand is held at 125 degrees so that curl is placed in the center of its base. When a roller is placed ON Base, there will be maximum lift or body. This is recommended for Velcro Rollers.
∑ 1/2 Off Base:- Describes final position of roller during roller set. Strand is held at 90 degrees so that curl is placed one-half off its base. When a roller is placed 1/2 off base, it will give you medium/natural volume.
∑ If you find that there isn't enough tension on the sides of the sections, rock the roller from side to side, pulling sections taunt, while rolling.
∑ Keep your ends tucked under when rolling. You should make sure that they are smooth, and tightly wrapped around the roller. Otherwise, this will create frizzy ends with fish hooks as this will create limp curls.
Remember, you can't just place the rollers anywhere, any old way, and expect to get a salon perfect set from it. It takes precisions. Take your time and be as neat as possible. Don't expect to get a salon perfect set by being sloppy.
ONE MORE THING, remember, it takes practice, practice, and more practice!!!
Edited by MissLuxurious - Apr 19 2009 at 8:47am