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MY JOURNEY TO BETTER SKIN CARE

 
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Benni View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 25 2014 at 11:27pm
I have been a little off schedule lately. Life is getting in the way of my skin care schedule .
My feet healed nicely the following day, and actually turned out much lighter. Maybe it was in the peeling process and I did not notice, or it's possible that I have been exfoliating for almost 3 months, and the KS soap is too strong for the newer skin . I may need to use some of the other soaps until I can order Likas Papaya soap.
Well the 2 Amlactin lotion I bought at the beginning is finally empty, not a bad investment. So far I have used one KS soap, 1 1/2 jars of Nadinola, and 2 Amlactin. This lasted 3 months
Overall, my skin is very much lighter, but I just need to even out.





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Benni View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 26 2014 at 10:51pm
So, a few days ago I complained (reported) a redness/rash on my feet. Today I skipped the bath tub/ Spa Day(too cold here in Ca), and opted for Dead Sea Salt soap while showering.   However, while drying off I noted peeling on the outer aspects on the soles of my feet . I may have been doing something correct after all. In the future, I may do the plastic bag and socks thing again, except, I may just apply the LA lotion on the soles of the feet.
Crossing my feet at the ankles while in bed or sitting, may encourage the hyperpigmentation of the feet, just like some folks get the Bra strap darkening of the shoulders. It's just the pressure we apply to certain areas   What a pickle, since some things come so naturally
Happy with the way most of my skin it turning out, but there are still those problem areas. Hopefully the Vit-C + MSM will assist with that,(fingers crossed)
As for the coming week.... Will continue with whatever my schedule permits. Sometimes an error turns out to be a good thing.
Still waiting for Retin A, and MQ 4% to arrive.
Ordered Zinc Oxide, now that I am tracking it , it is coming from China. Sorry no offense, but this worries me just a little.. Quality assurance, front and center. I am all for purity, or close to it. In the future I will opt for made in the USA. No offense to anyone, but health first for me and my frugal behind.



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Benni View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 29 2014 at 2:44pm
I have not been keeping up with my programme for the past few days . Changes in schedule throws things off. Vegas was great, but driving 600 miles in one day, kept my body achy for a few days. Needless to say it interrupted my LA peel day. Changes in altitude sucks . My cousin and his GF who is causasian mistook for a "white lady". I am not flattered by any stretch of the imagination, because I wear wigs and sunglasses (not a disguise), it's just a Califonia thing. I am not that fair, maybe it's because we have seen each other for such a long time. However, I now know that the permatan is gone, gone gone. Exfoliation rocks !!. It just takes patience and knowing what you really want out of your skin care journey.
Currently I will be focusing of 'spot treatment'. Exfoliation will/does not be even. Sun damage does/will not occur evenly!
Seriously, how many of us remember anyone applying sunscreen on our bodies since we were toddlers when going outdoors, except of course, when we went to the beach. Like that was the only time we could get sun burn/damage ??
The "Journey" continues with the obvious changes due to progress I have made thus far.
I will not buy new, or the currently "in" thing for skin care simply because I will not be able to keep up with it, due to finances or time/life Whatever you use to get your skin in the condition you want, MUST be continued to keep it that way. With that being said, for me, simple and inexpensive is best. I will not feak out missing a few days of my regimen as long as I make sunscreen/block a priority.


HAPPY CHINESE NEW YEAR..THIS IS THE YEAR OF THE HORSE
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Star007 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Star007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 30 2014 at 5:28pm
Hi Benni. will you be sharing pictures of your journey with us? I also have some areas of my body I wish to even out and would like to see your results
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Benni View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jan 31 2014 at 4:59pm
Originally posted by Star007 Star007 wrote:

Hi Benni. will you be sharing pictures of your journey with us? I also have some areas of my body I wish to even out and would like to see your results



Hi Starr007; Sorry, but I don't do pics. I sometimes slap myself on the head because I post way too much personal info, and I do not have equipment, or whatever is required to post pics. My PC is a hand-me-down , and may not be up to doing that, if I was inclined to do so.
This is my first attempt at seriously taking care of my skin. I post when things go well, and when I totally screw up .
This weekend will be my first attempt at DIY Vit-C Serum, and hopefully I have the to also DIY Zinc Oxide Sunblock since I just received my Zinc Oxide.
I will be honest in my endeavours since I also depend on others posting on the Internet for guidance.
My order is in for Retin A and MQ 4% for treating my problem areas. When I get started with that, I will post on it. Just keeping my fingers crossed that it is what I need to even out those areas.

Thank you for reading my rambles, and your query.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 02 2014 at 1:30am
Does anyone know anything about Free Acid Value
So here is the thing...I started using LA lotion by amping up Amlactin. I remember posting once that after increasing Amlactin to 17%, the pH was still around 4. Last night I DIY-ed LA lotion 17% using Aveeno. Got the bright idea to test pH, it was less than 2. (my strips are from 2.0-9.0) . I added a little more plain lotion, but only got it to pH 2. I remembered reading somewhere about FAV, but it was over my head. Anyway, I tested the lotion as is on my feet, legs and forearms. No burning, itching or redness...Not yet.
Until I find an article re FAV for Dummies, I will keep this off my torso, neck and the previously irritated areas .
I am thinking about Amlactin...While I liked it, even after increasing the LA content, was Amlactin really 12% LA originally How does FAV come into play.
Time to do some research, if I can wrap my head around this stuff.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 02 2014 at 2:51pm
Acid valueFrom Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

This article does not cite any references or sources. Please help improve this article by adding citations to reliable sources. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (December 2009)

In chemistry, acid value (or "neutralization number" or "acid number" or "acidity") is the mass of potassium hydroxide (KOH) in milligrams that is required to neutralize one gram of chemical substance. The acid number is a measure of the amount of carboxylic acid groups in a chemical compound, such as a fatty acid, or in a mixture of compounds. In a typical procedure, a known amount of sample dissolved in organic solvent (often isopropanol), is titrated with a solution of potassium hydroxide with known concentration and with phenolphthalein as a color indicator.

The acid number is used to quantify the amount of acid present, for example in a sample of biodiesel. It is the quantity of base, expressed in milligrams of potassium hydroxide, that is required to neutralize the acidic constituents in 1 g of sample.


Veq is the volume of titrant (ml) consumed by the crude oil sample and 1 ml of spiking solution at the equivalent point, beq is the volume of titrant (ml) consumed by 1 ml of spiking solution at the equivalent point, and 56.1 is the molecular weight of KOH. WOil is the mass of the sample in grams.

The molar concentration of titrant (N) is calculated as such:


In which WKHP is the mass (g) of KHP in 50 ml of KHP standard solution, Veq is the volume of titrant (ml) consumed by 50 ml KHP standard solution at the equivalent point, and 204.23 is the molecular weight of KHP.

There are standard methods for determining the acid number, such as ASTM D 974 and DIN 51558 (for mineral oils, biodiesel), or specifically for Biodiesel using the European Standard EN 14104 and ASTM D664 are both widely utilised worldwide. Acid number (mg KOH/g oil) for biodiesel should to be lower than 0.50 mg KOH/g in both EN 14214 and ASTM D6751 standard fuels. This is since the FFA produced may corrode automotive parts and these limits protect vehicle engines and fuel tanks.

As oil-fats rancidify, triglycerides are converted into fatty acids and glycerol, causing an increase in acid number. A similar observation is observed with biodiesel aging through analogous oxidation processes and when subjected to prolonged high temperatures (ester thermolysis) or through exposure to acids or bases (acid/base ester hydrolysis).




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 02 2014 at 3:34pm
After reading the above post, I googled "Understanding Free Acid Values for Dummies", and got this...
It is a post from Iamme on SCT..


"I forgot what site I got this from, but it is very good information. If you know exactly where it came from, please PM me, and I'll edit it to give proper credit. *** I have come to learn that this was posted by tangal on EDS. But I believe the original is from Diana Yvonne Skin Care Board ***.


pH

The initials pH stand for "Power of Hydrogen" or "Potential of Hydrogen." Both terms are correct. This is a measure of the hydrogen ion content in a solution.

The pH scale measures how acidic or alkaline a product is, compared to pure distilled water (which is pH 7.0). Only wet substances have a measurable pH. The skin's pH is actually the pH on the skins surface from the moisture within the skin, and the "acid mantle" which is part of the protective "barrier" on its surface. Hair for example has no pH.

The acid mantle is a fine film layer, slightly acidic, made up from skin oils, sweat, and dead cells. It is one means the skin uses to protect itself from bacteria, moisture loss, and environmental damage. Pollutants, harmful bacterium, contaminants are normally alkaline in nature, so a slightly acid skin surface helps fight off these harmful elements and prevent them from entering into, and damaging the skin. Maintaining the acid mantle is recommended for good skin health. When the acid mantle is damaged it takes approximately 14-17 hours to repair itself (assuming no other damaging products are applied to it).

A damaged acid mantle leads to a number of skin issues, such as over dry skin, dehydration, over oily skin, flaky skin, acne, sensitivity, etc. It would require another long post to detail all this. But incorrect pH products can contribute to acid mantle degradation, and increases in acne-causing bacteria on the skin. (More on this below)

The pH Scale

The pH scale goes from 0-14. This covers most wet substances, and certainly all skincare products.

-Acids have pH values under 7 - they are more acidic then water (acid)
-Alkalis have pH values over 7 - they are more alkaline then water (base)
-If a substance has a pH value of 7 - it is neutral, like water (neither acid nor base)

The difference between each whole-value pH level represents a tenfold change. (For example, a cleanser with a pH of 6 is ten times more alkaline than a cleanser with a pH of 5, and a cleanser with a pH of 7 is 100 times more alkaline then one of 5.) Because of this, only a few units of pH can make a big difference in how your skin reacts to a product.

Some pH examples:

pH 1 = Battery acid
pH 1.5 -2 = gastric (stomach) acid
pH 2 = lemon juice
pH 2.5 = cola soft drinks
pH 3 = vinegar
ph 3.5 = orange juice
pH 4.6-5.5 = healthy skin (and recommended pH range for your cleanser, for best skin health)
pH 5.5 = rainwater (pure water, when exposed to the atmosphere, will take in carbon dioxide, changing its pH)
pH 6.5 = milk
pH 6.5 – 7.4 = healthy saliva
pH 7 = pure distilled water - (This is neutral pH, neither acid nor base)
pH 7.35 – 7.45 = human blood
pH 8.5 = baking soda (damaging to skin's acid mantle)
pH 9 = seawater
pH 9.0-10.0 = hand soap, detergents (very damaging to acid mantle)
pH 10.5 = Milk of Magnesia
pH 11.5 = household ammonia
pH 12.5 = household bleach
pH 13 = lye (sodium hydroxide, or Draino)(Alkaline or Base extreme)


Skin and the Acid Mantle

Newborn baby skin has a neutral pH of 7. Within a few months it adjusts to a more "normal" pH of 4.5 to 5.5, enabling it to be more resistant to bacteria.

Adult skin is normally slightly acidic, a range of 4.5 to 5.5. Different body areas can differ in pH, and disease and acid mantle damage can alter pH. But the preferred range for facial skin pH is 4.5 to 5.5.

Those with skin disease, skin problems, and stressed skin usually have a skin pH over 6.0. Aged, stressed and damaged skin have more difficulty maintaining a “correct†pH.

As skin pH is elevated closer to pH 7.0, it becomes less and less able to function optimally and to kill bacteria. This allows acne-causing bacteria to multiply rapidly on the skin's surface. (Acne bacteria are found on everyone’s skin, even if you never have a pimple in your life.) The damaged skin is unable to fend off the excess bacteria, and they multiply rapidly. Bacteria growth is very slow at pH of 5.5 or less, but a slight shift upward, toward the alkaline levels, causes a marked increase in the reproduction and lifespan of acne-causing bacteria.

So if your skin is at a higher pH (anything over 6, as damaged skin often is) the acne-causing bacteria can multiply much easier and faster -- often faster then your skin can handle. Skin pH is one main contributor to acne.

Skin pH also has an effect on how easily irritated your skin is, how well it ages, and how it deals with product and environmental stress. This is why it is recommended that you cleanse skin with mild, non-irritating products, as close to the skin's natural pH as possible.

Many commercial cleansers are highly alkaline, which also changes the skin's pH to alkaline levels on the skin surface, for a short time. Many alkaline cleansers are in the same pH range as baking soda, and some are nearly as high as ammonia. This is very harsh on the skin, and can lead to increased irritation, acne, moisture loss, skin aging etc. As pimples erupt, the skin is less able to heal itself, or the damage that pimples leave behind.

If a product has a high pH and a considerable percentage of a strong detergent such as sodium lauryl sulfate, or irritant like peppermint oil or menthol, because of the pH destructive activity on the acid mantle, the detergent can contribute to even more damage then it would if the product pH was closer to 5.5. It literally takes a split second for an alkaline product to degrade the skin barrier enough for an irritant or damaging detergent to penetrate. Some people can handle this better then others, but long term daily use on the skin can contribute to long term issues on all skin types. As skin ages, or the barrier function degrades, it has more difficultly dealing with this type of stress.

Even when the skin re-adjusts to its more normal pH (4.5 to 5.5) - it is already damaged, irritated and stressed. The damage recovery involves longer term healing; 14 to 17 hours for acid mantle repair. Continued long-term damage, stress, and mild irritation can prevent the skin from maintaining its best pH level of 4.5 to 5.5. With time, and increased damage, it may tend to stay at the 6 range or higher.

As skin become healthier, its pH values lower, and acne growth also lowers. The skin becomes more "normal" and regulated.

Listing of pH of many common cleansers:

The pH of Common Cleanser

A few examples from above link:

Burt's Bees Tomato, Carrot, and Lettuce soaps 10
Dial Soap (liquid and bar) 9.5
Dove Bar, Baby Dove Bar 7
Johnson & Johnson Head to Toe Baby Wash 6.5-7.0
Neutrogena Facial Cleansing Bar Original Formula 8.7-9.2
Paula's Choice (all formulations) 5.5

A product may include the term "pH Balanced" on the label. This does NOT mean that it has an optimal pH of 5.5. The term has no legal definition.

Some products are a good pH, but high in irritants. Which is better then high pH and high irritants, but not great either.

A good cleanser cleans the skin without breaking down the acid mantle, or adding irritants to the skin. It is mild with a 5.5 or lower pH."


I remember posting this previously, but how confusingly different is it from the Wiki explaination. With my LA lotion pH 2, I am basically putting 'lemon juice' on my skin .
Why am I being thrown off by terms like 'Free Acid Values' ??
The lower pH of my LA lotion does/should help to better exfoliate, but it is also very drying. Cannot reapply today because Monday is 'peel day'.
Still wondering why when I 'doctored' Amlactin to 17% it remained at a pH 4. Now, starting with a neutral lotion, calculating to 17% LA, the pH is 2.
Too cool for 'Spa Day' today, plus there is too much else going on. I will just shower with Sea Salt Soap to save time.

Free Acid Value my

May your Super Bowl Team choice be TRIUMPHANT !!!!







Edited by Benni - Feb 02 2014 at 3:39pm
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Benni View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 02 2014 at 4:07pm
Decided not to DIY Vit C Serun today. Still have some Serum left over, and since the DIY has such a short shelf life, it will be a waste of product and time. Plus, the LA lotion thing has me short on pH strips .


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Benni Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Feb 02 2014 at 11:04pm
CONGRATULATIONS SEAHAWKS!!!!

It never ceases to amaze me how brown the rinse water is when I use Sea Salt Soap, or have the SS bath !!!
It was suggested that I apply my oils while my skin is wet after a shower, but after being programmed to towel off after shower for a few decades, it is a habit too hard to break. My skin really sucks up the applied oils, from face to toes. BTW, I am baggy-ing my feet tonight with the oils. Don't know why, it just felt like a good idea .
Looking forward to LA peel tomorrow. It will be 2-weeks since the last one. Just hoping it goes well. My skin is so finicky

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