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    Posted: May 29 2014 at 3:34am
Hi ladies,

I need a little quick advice. For the past few months I've been struggling with my ends. I'm normally a wash n go girl but I guess those days are over now that my hair's getting fairly long and because I've been getting so many SSKs even when I was keeping up with my moisturizing regimen. The last time I had trimmed my hair was in Feb but in the last few weeks, I've been noticing tons of splits along the bottom 2 inches of my hair now. I've been trying to keep up with my SnD but I don't know if I'm doing the right thing. The only thing I know for sure is that my actual ends aren't splitting. It's fairly odd that I'm seeing this now. I've never experienced anything like this. It's not like I use combs or anything normally. I finger detangle at least once weekly and always in the shower while I have a heavy load of conditioner in my hair. At first, I figured that I have been handling my hair too roughly but they're still showing up even though I'm being as gentle as possible. I'm just about to go wig it because this is all getting to be too much for me but before I do, does anyone have any good suggestions on how to handle this before I suffer a huge setback?
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Originally posted by Kocoa Kocoa wrote:

Hi ladies,

I need a little quick advice. For the past few months I've been struggling with my ends. I'm normally a wash n go girl but I guess those days are over now that my hair's getting fairly long and because I've been getting so many SSKs even when I was keeping up with my moisturizing regimen. The last time I had trimmed my hair was in Feb but in the last few weeks, I've been noticing tons of splits along the bottom 2 inches of my hair now. I've been trying to keep up with my SnD but I don't know if I'm doing the right thing. The only thing I know for sure is that my actual ends aren't splitting. It's fairly odd that I'm seeing this now. I've never experienced anything like this. It's not like I use combs or anything normally. I finger detangle at least once weekly and always in the shower while I have a heavy load of conditioner in my hair. At first, I figured that I have been handling my hair too roughly but they're still showing up even though I'm being as gentle as possible. I'm just about to go wig it because this is all getting to be too much for me but before I do, does anyone have any good suggestions on how to handle this before I suffer a huge setback?


What is your moisturizing regimen? Do you deep condition? And what products are you using? It's possible you are stretching your wash and goes too long. Maybe do them twice a week because you need to finger detangle often to get out the shed hairs and prevent your ends from drying out. It's also possible that the ends of your hair could be brushing against your shirt or something if it is that long.

You may want to look into the Max Hydration Method.

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/the-max-hydration-methodfrom-my-other-post_topic368937_page1.html



Edited by pinkecube - May 29 2014 at 8:36am
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I admit to being a little lax lately but it pretty much goes like this;

My scalp doesn't get too oily so I only shampoo once every 2 wks with SM Curl & Shine shampoo (or Tresemme's Moisture Rich if I'm in a pinch).
I dc weekly using either Aussie Moist 3 Min. Miracle or either Shea Moisture Raw Shea Deep Tx (soft) or Nature's Gate Biotin (hard) for protein.
My hair gets wet pretty much daily when I hop in the shower. Most times I apply Tresemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture (or Moisture Rich if in a pinch) conditioner and let it sit for a few minutes before partially (to mostly) washing it out. I always dry off my hair using an old cotton t-shirt by wrapping it around my head (turban) for a few minutes.
Depending on how my hair feels (sometimes filmy from the conditioner), I'll go ahead and apply some SM Curl & Style Milk and seal with coconut oil (or just seal if I still have enough Tresemme in my hair).
My hair is on the low porosity end of the spectrum, so I only moisturize once a day. Used to do it twice (shower and before sleep) but my hair used to get too stretchy and would feel mushy before long.

I do agree that I need to detangle a bit more. I used to but when the SSKs started, I figured it was because of the amount of fingercombing I was doing in the shower in the first place. I have a Magic Rake but I've been afraid of using it since I've been getting these splits. Right now my hair is supposed to be somewhere between MBL and BSL when straightened but when shrunk (as with my wash n goes), it really doesn't hang lower than NL yet (the shrinkage is real).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 29 2014 at 4:58pm
Originally posted by Kocoa Kocoa wrote:

I admit to being a little lax lately but it pretty much goes like this;

My scalp doesn't get too oily so I only shampoo once every 2 wks with SM Curl & Shine shampoo (or Tresemme's Moisture Rich if I'm in a pinch).
I dc weekly using either Aussie Moist 3 Min. Miracle or either Shea Moisture Raw Shea Deep Tx (soft) or Nature's Gate Biotin (hard) for protein.
My hair gets wet pretty much daily when I hop in the shower. Most times I apply Tresemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture (or Moisture Rich if in a pinch) conditioner and let it sit for a few minutes before partially (to mostly) washing it out. I always dry off my hair using an old cotton t-shirt by wrapping it around my head (turban) for a few minutes.
Depending on how my hair feels (sometimes filmy from the conditioner), I'll go ahead and apply some SM Curl & Style Milk and seal with coconut oil (or just seal if I still have enough Tresemme in my hair).
My hair is on the low porosity end of the spectrum, so I only moisturize once a day. Used to do it twice (shower and before sleep) but my hair used to get too stretchy and would feel mushy before long.

I do agree that I need to detangle a bit more. I used to but when the SSKs started, I figured it was because of the amount of fingercombing I was doing in the shower in the first place. I have a Magic Rake but I've been afraid of using it since I've been getting these splits. Right now my hair is supposed to be somewhere between MBL and BSL when straightened but when shrunk (as with my wash n goes), it really doesn't hang lower than NL yet (the shrinkage is real).


Since your hair is low porosity, you might want to consider using products that don't build up as much on the hair.


For example, you only shampoo every 2 weeks and clearly when you tried to increase your moisturizing, your hair tilted to the side of moisture overload. This should tell you that your products are building up. Also, your shampoo is not efficient at removing that build up(see bottom). By build up i mean, not on your scalp, but they are building up and blocking your hair cuticle, something notoriously easy to develop with low porosity hair. moisture overload is actually build up of conditioning agents. That gummy, stretchy feeling is caused by build up conditioning agents like panthenol/biotin, coconut oil, and silicones (which are in your products), the same way protein overload is caused by build up of proteins. At the end of the day it's all build up and build up produces many of the same basic symptoms being your hair is dehydrated. I wouldn't worry so much about coconut it's minor compared to the other problem ingredients in ur products though, but it does contribute.

You may get that gummy overstretching feeling but that is just the plasticizing or conditioning effect of the conditioning agent, your hair is actually dry because not enough water is getting into your hair's cortex. So far it is probably effecting your hair to where you are not getting enough moisture into your cuticles, despite Deep Conditioning since your DC has those build up causing ingredients. Your hair may feel soft and lubricated, but it is not being moisturized efficiently.

The cortex of your hair not getting efficient amounts of moisture, means that the protein structure of your hair is going to be effected, causing split ends. You may think that the protein treatments would help, but because the underlying problem is moisture, and you have low porosity hair, this could actually be making the problem worse. So now the weaker ends are the first being effected.

Right now i think that you are getting one of the issues that set back low porosity hair in terms of length retention the most. Many of us do not know how to efficiently moisturize our hair, we get a sort of immediate satisfaction and then reach a limit we can't get past with our hair.

i think that fingercombing is very important. Try to detangle more often get out more shed hairs, and especially drop the silicone product and space out and limit the protein more(in fact i would say completely drop them, low porosity hair pretty much hates hydrolyzed proteins/peptides, biotin/panthenol.) If anything this would prevent SSK, not cause them. Of course drier hair is prone to SSK, because when the hair isn't retaining enough moisture in the cortex, it becomes very lightweight and prone to coiling upon itself into a knot. I wouldn't recommend you to use a magic rake. That will likely make the situation worse.

Aside from the silicones, protein, and panthenol, i think the alcohols in your TNNM conditioner that you sometimes cowash with could be problematic.  Drying effects of alcohol causes split ends as well. And your leave in could also be too much protein for you. And coconut oil absorbs into the hair shaft and plasticizes the cortex, so it can pretty much act like a protein.


If you want to know how to efficiently introduce moisture into low porosity hair, look into the max hydration method. It systematically introduces moisture to the hair, and is ideal for low porosity hair types.

MHM:
http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/the-max-hydration-methodfrom-my-other-post_topic368937.html

Video showing the method on my 4c hair, and my 4c hair's transformation:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mGr2F2LIObE



Here are some bolded problem ingredients (build up) in your products:


Aussie Moist 3 Min. Miracle
Water, Stearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Dimethicone, Ecklonia Radiata Extract (Australian Sea Kelp), Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Glutamic Acid, Fragrance, Benzyl Alcohol, EDTA, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone


Shea Moisture Raw Shea Deep Tx

Ingredients
Deionized Water , Butyrospermum ParkiiShea Butter, Certified Organic , Argan Oil , Vegetable Glycerin , Emulsifying Wax , Sea Kelp Extract , Panthenol (Vitamin B-5) , Essential Oil Blend , Avocado Oil , Lonicera Caprifolium Flower ExtractHoneysuckle , Lonicera Japonica Flower ExtractJapanese Honeysuckle , TocopherolVitamin E , Hyssopus Officinalis Extract , Salvia Officinalis Leaf ExtractSage , Equisetum Arvense Extract , Soybean Oil , Daucus Carota Sativa Seed OilCarrot

Nature's Gate Biotin

Water, Glycerin (Vegetable), Stearyl Alcohol (Vegetable Derived), Cetyl Alcohol (Vegetable Derived), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (Vegetable Derived), Benzyl Alcohol(this is a drying alcohol), Biotin, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Sesamum Indicum (Sesame) Seed Oil, Hordeum Vulgare (Barley) Extract, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract, Viola Tricolor (Pansy) Extract, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Niacin, Sodium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Cysteine, Arginine, Serine, Threonine, Folic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, PCA, Glycine, Alanine, Valine, Isoleucine, Proline, Histidine, Phenylalanine, Inositol, Stearalkonium Chloride (Vegetable Derived), Hydroxyethycellulose (Plant Derived), Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid (Vegetable Derived), Fragrance


Tresemme Naturals Nourishing Moisture

Water (Aqua, Eau), Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine Fragrance (Parfum), Lauroyl Lysine, Caprylyl Glycol, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer, Aspartic Acid, Distearyldimonium Chloride(build up causing quat salt), Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil**, Citric Acid, Alcohol, Isopropyl Alcohol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice**


Tresseme Naturals Moisture Rich(lots of silicones=build up, and build up causing quat salts(not on scalp so much as on cuticles)

water , stearyl alcohol , Cetyl Alcohol , CyclopentaSiloxane , Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine , Cyclohexasiloxane , panthenol , Tocopheryl Acetate , Biotin , Niacinamide , Aspartic Acid , Ascorbic acid , dimethicone , Quaternium-18 , Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine , Isostearamidopropyl Ethyldimonium Ethosulfate , PEG-9 , polysorbate 20 , Disodium EDTA(salt) , DMDM HYDANTOIN , fragrance

Shea moisture coconut and Hibiscous style milk

Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Sugar Starch, Silk Protein, Essential Oil Blend, Melia Azadirachta (Neem) Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbitol Esters, Algae Extract, Hyssopus Officinalis Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf and Equisetum Arvense Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Hibiscus Flower Extract
*Certified Organic Ingredient


Shea moisture shampoo(this may as well be a conditioner, so basically you just cowash. The ingredients in this will only add to build up. I see zero effective suficants. This isn't good since you do use products with silicones.)

Deionized Water , Decyl Glucoside (Sugar Beets) , Cocos Nucifera Oil (Coconut)Certified Organic , Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)Certified Organic , Aloe Vera Leaf Juice , Vitamin E , Melia Azadirachta Seed Oil (Neem) , Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate (Coconut Oil) , Panthenol (Vitamin B-5) , Rosemary Extract , Silk Protein , Lonicera Caprifolium Flower ExtractHoneysuckle , Lonicera Japonica Flower ExtractJapanese Honeysuckle


So my analysis is these products are your leaving hair strands with build up, and that is causing your hair to be dehydrated. depite your attempts to moisturize it, the fact that you have build up and on top of that low porosity hair, means your hair isn't benefiting from these things. The dryness then causes split end prone hair.


Edited by pinkecube - May 29 2014 at 6:09pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kocoa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 29 2014 at 9:45pm
SMH, I didn't know I was still building up like that w/o silicones (mostly). I'm just gonna have to go back to my old routine I had when I was starting. I used to buy a local brand here and their items were really good.

I used to team up this shampoo with HE HH. I've long since let go of HE HH because I felt like it was starting to build up in my hair after a few yrs.

Al'chemy Rice Aminos and Wheat Protein Shampoo
Ingredients:

Aqua (purified Australian water), Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate*,Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate(from coconut),Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine*,Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate*,Lauryl Glucoside*,Sodium Chloride,Glycerin*,Sorbitol*,Coco-glucoside*,Glyceryl Oleate(from glycerin & sunflower oil),Glyceryl Laurate*,Panthenol (Provitamin B5),Citric Acid*,Sodium Citrate*,Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (from coconut & sugar cane),Sodium Gluconate*,Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (GMO free),Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate,Rice Amino Acids,Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate),Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil (certified organic),Citrus aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil,Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil,Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract,Tetrasodium EDTA,Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Oil,Limonene#,Linalool#,*derived from botanical sources, # component of the essential oils

I know it has proteins and panthenol but my hair used to feel squeaky clean afterwards. I also never had a moisture overload/dryness problem at all. I also used to use Giovanni Direct Leave-in as a protein leave-in. I forgot which proteins it had but I rem them being fairly weak.

Could you recommend any products I should try?

*sigh* I used to do the Cherry Lola Tx back in the day, looks like I'll be revisiting some old techniques that I stopped doing a while ago.


Edited by Kocoa - May 29 2014 at 9:47pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pinkecube Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 29 2014 at 10:10pm
Originally posted by Kocoa Kocoa wrote:

SMH, I didn't know I was still building up like that w/o silicones (mostly). I'm just gonna have to go back to my old routine I had when I was starting. I used to buy a local brand here and their items were really good.

I used to team up this shampoo with HE HH. I've long since let go of HE HH because I felt like it was starting to build up in my hair after a few yrs.

Al'chemy Rice Aminos and Wheat Protein Shampoo
Ingredients:

Aqua (purified Australian water), Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate*,Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate(from coconut),Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine*,Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate*,Lauryl Glucoside*,Sodium Chloride,Glycerin*,Sorbitol*,Coco-glucoside*,Glyceryl Oleate(from glycerin & sunflower oil),Glyceryl Laurate*,Panthenol (Provitamin B5),Citric Acid*,Sodium Citrate*,Sodium Cocoyl Glutamate (from coconut & sugar cane),Sodium Gluconate*,Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride,Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein (GMO free),Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate,Rice Amino Acids,Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate),Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil (certified organic),Citrus aurantium Bergamia (Bergamot) Fruit Oil,Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil,Quillaja Saponaria Bark Extract,Tetrasodium EDTA,Jasminum Officinale (Jasmine) Oil,Limonene#,Linalool#,*derived from botanical sources, # component of the essential oils

I know it has proteins and panthenol but my hair used to feel squeaky clean afterwards. I also never had a moisture overload/dryness problem at all. I also used to use Giovanni Direct Leave-in as a protein leave-in. I forgot which proteins it had but I rem them being fairly weak.

Could you recommend any products I should try?

*sigh* I used to do the Cherry Lola Tx back in the day, looks like I'll be revisiting some old techniques that I stopped doing a while ago.


yes, that shampoo would be a more effective clarifier. If your hair felt clean with it and liked it, it's worth a try.

For conditioning products, I swear by Trader joe's tea tree tingle, and kinky curly knot today as leave in, deep conditioner, and cowash. As a leave in when i use them, i water them down. I also water them down as my cowash and DC, but make them thicker. Very moisturizing ingredients. I myself don't use a shampoo, i clarify using bakingsoda, conditioner, and water mixture. And then a bentonite clay mixture. (MHM)

But for shampoos i think that if you look up one that has some form of gentle surficant(Not sulfates--unless for if you want to continue using silicones--or alcohol) it should work fine for clarifying.

Cherry Lola treatments are good, I also do them and a modified version from MHM. You may want to consider implementing bakingsoda mixtures and clay, they do well for low porosity hair. Like before you deep condition, do a cherry lola so ur cuticles are lifted, or do a clay rinse(both will lift the cuticle). Clay will strengthen the hair in a way low porosity hair better tolerates and even thrives with.

If you still like protein treatments, stick to mild ones like animal proteins and amino acids. They are better tolerated by low porosity hair that the ones that absorb and cling to the hair(peptides, hydrolyzed wheat protein, biotin/panthenol). Cherry lola(including the MHM version) would fit that category of mild protein treatents.


Here are the other mixtures in case u want to know:

Baking soda rinse. Mix 1-2 tablespoons of baking soda into thick 1.5-3 oz conditioner. Add 4-7 oz of water. Shake. Apply to hair in sections and let sit on the hair for 30-60 minutes. If being done on product free hair, lower bakingsoda measurement to 1-2 teaspoons. This step is ideal for low porosity hair, since it lifts the cuticle as well.


Clay rinse

This rinse can be done using any pure clay powder, like Bentonite Clay, Rhassoul clay, red clay, zeolite clay, european clay, French Green Sea clay and more. Using a funnel, you can pour each ingredient into a large empty 32 shampoo/conditioner bottle, shake afterward, use, and then store for the next day.

mix ingredients:

  • 1 cup pure clay powder

  • 2-3 cup warm water

  • 1 tablespoon of honey

  • 1 tablespoon of olive oil







Edited by pinkecube - May 29 2014 at 10:13pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Kocoa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 30 2014 at 8:01pm
Thanks for the tips pinkecube. I was checking out the MHM thread and the steps were pretty close to what I used to do when I was transitioning and new at being natural. I never had any complaints then and I was just thinking that all of the knotting and splitting was what came with the territory now that my hair is this long. 
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