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I want to learn how to do a cold wave perm

 
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Dany06 View Drop Down
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    Posted: May 25 2010 at 9:49am

I've been looking for dvds on this subject matter and I cant find any. I see some on regular acid perming, but not doing type 4 hair where you have to presoften the hair w/ thio. I did find a google preview of Milady's cosmetology book showing some stuff, but the important picture could not be shown. Does anybody know of any dvds, online instructional classes or some good youtube videos on doing this chemical hair service?

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stephshe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stephshe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2010 at 11:43am
Honestly I would never attempt to do it myself, there are just too many steps and too much room for error. Even professions seem to cause damage to some ladies hair. I am very use to doing my own hair as far as when I wore relaxers and colored my hair, I even bleached it blonde myself too but I would never try doing a curl.
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Dany06 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dany06 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 25 2010 at 2:23pm
Stephshe thanks so much for answering. I just wanted to be able to do it myself for the front while maybe having the rest of my hair put into a weave or half wig.  It would be some time before I even try that. My hair is currently texlaxed and I have about 2 inches of new growth. I wouldn't even try that until next year around this time.
 
I've been  thinking about switching over to thio hair relaxer/curl smoother like Rusk Anti Curl and Thermal reconditioning like Yuko and Liscio. Currently Im experimenting on my head. Just one little section. I never even thought that thio could be used on 4 type hair until I saw the lady at HairsTalent.com  youtube video. That gave me hope. Also I've been on the Verticalsinhair.com board and the stylist who  owns the thing is determined to think that thio should not be used to straighten nor even texturize 4 type hair, but he does suggest jheri curls etc. I recently asked him about the fact that jheri curls, Ferm Perm and etc require thio in the hair. He hasn't answered me back yet.
 
Regardless of all that I just want you to know your hair is gorgeous. I remember seeing your pics when you first started. I wish I would have done it back then when I was still natural. Or better yet, about 7 months ago before I decided to telax my hair. But I dont trust anyone where I live to do this to my hair at all. Since I've put my own hair care needs in my hands my hair seems to grow w/o breakage and looks so healthy. I fear what others may do to my head. I've cut my hair off down to nothing twice in the past 3 years. I'd hate to have to do it again.  
 
I also did mention to him about looking at your fotki. I hope that is not a problem.


Edited by Dany06 - May 25 2010 at 2:43pm
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stephshe View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stephshe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 26 2010 at 12:02pm
Hi Dany06, no it's not problem at all he can look at my fotki, I just wish i kept it updated. I'll try and post more pics by this weekend because i did just do a retouch. I do understand about wanting to do your own hair because I am very use to doing that myself but now I have to rely on my stylist every 10 weeks. 
 
My stylist no longer used carefree curl anymore he only uses products called v-violet and they have a website called vviolet.com but not many curl products are on there. I actually had to type the word wave in the search engine to get the body wave gel that I've been using to come up.
 
What I can say is that i didn't have any shedding at all with new product and my stylist was very impressed with it also, He said I was the first non-gray haired person that he used the system onLOL. I do normally lose hair during the combout after the straightening process but that didn't happen this time. I also haven't had any shedding since which is great too. My scalp was really itchy and dry for a few days but I put the gel on along with my carefree curl hair and scalp spray and now it feels great. I am using less products now too which makes me feel like I'm almost getting a regular routine and it's simply using coconut oil and some of the body wave activator gel and putting my plastic cap on for about 20 minutes a day.
 
I think as far as the curly perm process it is pretty much the same as how a caucasian perm is done except you have the straightening cream process as the first step which is pretty much done like a relaxer is done. Timing is going to probably be your biggest issue, just knowing when to rinse out the cream( i can guess-timate that mine was on for like 20-25minutes without sitting under the dryer and his assistant smoothed out the cream on the new growth too).
 
Then it was rinsed out but I don't know if shampoo was used but I would imagine so, probably a neutralizing shampoo. The new system uses a thicker lotion type product(i guess this is the curl rearranger) that he put on before he rolled my hair on the rods and put the plastic cap on and i sat under the dryer). The rest is kind of unclear but I know this other liquidy neutrilizer was put on while my head with the rods were in the bowl. Each rod had to be saturated then left on for a while. Then finally it was rinsed out and I went back to the chair to have the rods taken out and he put in a little body wave activator gel.
 
I'm just telling you this to give you an idea of the processes but don't follow my instructions because I may have left something out. There are a few stylist on the board though and you tube can show you at least how the caucasion perms are done which is similar after the straightening process is done but of course use the perms for our hair.


Edited by stephshe - May 26 2010 at 12:03pm
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Dany06 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dany06 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 26 2010 at 1:33pm
Hey Stephshe, I would definitely not try it  without full instructions particualarly instructions on dvd. Im thinking about purchasing the Llongueras Permanent Wave and Relaxing  4 DVD Set when I get  a bit more length.
 
After reading through majority of your big thread, i saw that you and others stated that stylists can use the rearranger to straighten   hair. After realizing that the first step is basically a thio based relaxer that got me to thinking. I already have plans to start using a thio based relaxer on my hair. Well, when I get some length (thio relaxed hair) and am able to cut off the hydroxide relaxed ends then I could try doing a perm just for the front perimeter. Or I could get a professional  to do the front maybe.  If I like the waved front (provided I have curly extensions in) and it seems to look nice then I may think about doing a curly perm all over. If curls just dont look right on me and it seems too difficult to take care of  then I would stick with just relaxing my hair straight or doing TR.
 
Also does the first step really straighten out your hair or just relaxes the curl a bit? I keep hearing  and reading that regular thio relaxers dont provide straight results  unless doing it as a TR. It is said that thio relaxers only smooth out curls and waves. Maybe the curl rearranger for permanent cold wave provide strong results.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stephshe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May 26 2010 at 4:25pm
When my first step is done (the straightening portion) my hair feels and looks just like it did when i used a lye relaxer. That's why I like to wear my hair straight withing the first 4 weeks because afterwards I have to flat iron my new growth too much. I  have different textures in my hair so I can tell you it does get straight.
 
My stylist did tell me though if I do wear it straight alot I will still have to keep it moisturized.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote psychogurl85 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 02 2010 at 7:27am
what is the difference between a cold wave perm and regular acid perm?

Also do you know whether you need to neutralise the straightening solution after the first step?

Finally, can you use a regular neutralising shampoo, or does it need to be a perm neutraliser?

Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dany06 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 21 2010 at 4:11pm
I've been doing a bit of research on this whole curly perm thing while I wait for my hair to grow out some. The following is what I have learned so far:
 
1. The traditional perm/body wave is really no different than the "dry curl" with the exception of the straightening step. Now the straightening step is important. It is not simply just for having smoother/sleeker curls but also helps the second step thio absorb better. Have any of you noticed how long it takes for natural hair to absorb water. The liquid thio would just roll off the hair before it could penetrate enough if you did not "break" the bonds some and make the hair a bit more porous. But I must admit that the silkening effect of the thio is a plus.
 
2. When procedures do not go right it is always the fault of the stylist not the product. Either the stylist did not take into consideration the quality of your hair (ie. your hair is too damaged for the procedure or not using the correct strength of the rearranger) or the stylist is doing the process wrong(like not rinsing out the thio well enough before neutralizing).  It is also the fault of the stylist if he or she lacks on instructing the client from damaging their own hair or even not using fresh enough products. So its not the product but the person using the product. This has been said many times by people under the curl section and from my research this seems to be true.
 
3. The most damaging part of the curly perm/body wave is the neutralizer. Thio and the neutralizer(either hydrogen peroxide or sodium bromide) are not friends. It is very important that a person thoroughly rinses out all traces of the thio before neutralizing the hair. If not it could cause frizz, dryness, breakage and other bad things to the hair. As others have stated this is probably the reason why WN can cause problems. The gel probably doesn't wash out properly. Also it is important that you get rid of any excess moisture before neutralizing. This is why some stylists will sit you under a dryer after rinsing out the thio but before putting in the neutralizer.
 
4. If a dry curl and a thio/alkaline based perm are the same then you dont necessarily need a neutralizer. The neutralizer is for convience. When you neutralize the hair it only rehardens the hair to about 85%. The rest  of the neutralizing process can only be done by air oxidizing. This is why they advise that you wait atleast 3 days so that your hair can neutralize properly by the air. You can skip the chemical neutralizing process and just do what is know as an air neutralizer. When air neutralizing you would thoroughly rinse out all residue from the hair and wait 24 hours before taking the rollers out. After the 24 hour period the stylist will either use the peroxide neutralizer or just rinse/shampoo the hair. Supposedly doing it the air neutralizing way fully cures the hair in 24 hours rather than waiting 3 days to a week. Also this way causes the least amount of damage. The curls are firmer, more true to size, and have a softer feel. Now the downside is that your head might stink for a full day.
 
Above is what I am sure of, but there are some things that still do confuse me. I know that you only apply the rearranger to the new growth only, but what about the second step. It seems as though everytime you get a touch up the stylist places the step #2 over all of the hair. So I imagine that every time you retouch you process all of the hair once again. Am I correct about this process or am I mistakened.I want to know if their are a few of you who dont do this if this is what truly happens.  I've seen a bit of information about using block-it end papers, covering the ends with heavy conditioners like cholesterol, and even only rolling the new growth while leaving the previously processed ends out. If stylist are constantly redoing the ends then no wonder why  the ends tend to go limp/stringy and they recommend getting your hair trimmed so often. That also explains why you can switch all over curl size from touch up to touch up. I cant find hardly any true detailed info talking about how to only do the new growth still have the hair very curly. I find most of the information regarding only processing the new growth for more of a body wave type look.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Choongy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 22 2010 at 6:51am
^^^^very good info thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Dany06 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Jun 22 2010 at 1:16pm
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