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Hair Bleaching and Pre-lightening

 
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RedSoxtober View Drop Down
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    Posted: Sep 13 2011 at 2:07pm
After responding to numerous questions regarding going from black to blonde, hair bleaching, toning  etc...this thread will be dedicated to just that..... 
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RedSoxtober View Drop Down
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Here's some basic tools you'll need for bleaching and pre-lightening
 
 
WARNING: I am not a professional but have a almost 20 years of personal experience with bleaching and hair coloring.
-tint bowl and tint brush
-gloves (like medical gloves or salon gloves)
- a towel and washcloth that you won't mind getting messy
- a t-shirt that you won't mind getting messy
- hair lightener (powder, creme, liquid or oil it's up to you really)
- developer (comes in creme, liquid and lotion...I prefer creme or lotion to make a nice smooth mixture. It also comes in various strengths 10vol/3%, 20 vol/6%, 30 vol/9%, 40/12%.( I use 10-20 for pre-ligtening depending on what level hair color I want ) Read the instructions on the lightening packet before using developers some require a specific type and volume.
- shampoo, deep conditioner and reconstructor
- shower hose (it makes easier to rinse out hair color)
- two mirrors or a friend to help with parting and color application
NOTE: Before you do anything, make sure your hair is in good condition and do a porosity test!! This is the most important thing to check to ensure good color acheivement! Take a few strands of hair from your comb or brush for these tests. Next, move on to the strand test.
 
Porosity Test: Take 1 strand of clean dry hair and place it in a clear cup of water. If it floats, it's resistant. If it bobs in the water then it's somewhat porus and you'll need a protein filler prior to coloring. If it sinks, don't do any coloring until you get your hair in better condition or trim off the damaged parts. 
Strand Test: Take about 20-30 strands of hair from your comb or brush and arrange then so that the roots and ends are all matched up. If not, then...well your test results won't be accurate. Tape the strands to something like a piece of plastic shopping bag then take a tiny amount (a teaspoon works fine) of your hair lightener or color and mix with developer ( use something like the plastic part of a q-tip and a plastic bottle cap) according to whatever ratio the instructions say. Apply, then start your timer. Allow to process for 10 minutes, wipe away the mixture and hold the stand up to light. If this is not your desired shade, apply a little more mixture and process another 5 minutes. Continue to repeat until the desired shade has been reached or up to 45 minutes. Once you've determined the process time, write it down next to your strand test.
NOTE: For anyone trying to go 5 or more level lighter than their natural color or going from dark hair color to light, you WILL need to pre-lighten first.
.....I'll be back to post the next step.....
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Bashii View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bashii Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 15 2011 at 8:55am
Wow thank you so much for this thread I really would like to lighten my hair some but I'm really nervous because it seems like any time i do something to my hair it ends up breaking off Cry
I've been natural for a year and a half now and I'd really like to do something ... colorful :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedSoxtober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 15 2011 at 6:49pm
WARNING: IF YOUR HAIR IS RELAXED/TEXLAXED/PERMED, I strongly recommend that you do not bleach your hair. Please seek professional advice from a few hair colorists. 
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RedSoxtober View Drop Down
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CHOOSING THE RIGHT LIGHTENER and DEVELOPER
Walking into the hair color aisle at the BSS can be a bit confusing and overwhelming if you're not experienced in hair dyeing or can't decide on what you desire. So here are a few types of lighteners found in most BSS. NOTE: Always read the instructions to be sure you have everything required for proper bleaching. One missing thing can ruin everything!
POWDER: These come in packets, tubs and are usually white, blue or violet (the blue/violet powders help neutralize gold-orange tones). They can be mixed with 10,20,30,40 volume creme, lotion or liquid developer (unless the packet says otherwise) in a ratio of 1oz powder to 2oz developer. I personally prefer to use creme developer with powders since they make for a smoother application. These tend to dry out easily so be sure to use a plastic cap to prevent this happening.
My Recomendation: Ion Color Brilliance has a decent blue lightening powder and their lotion developers are great for sensitve scalps. No burning, itching or stinging and it has a decent scent, good quality and decent price. This is sold at SALLY's and they have special sales on this brand fairly often. This is a popular bleach amongst You Tube users.
LIQUID: These usually come in 2oz bottles (much like liquid hair dye does) and are mixed with liquid or creme developers depending on the instructions. Some liquid lighteners require activator or booster packets for extra lifting power and are blue to neutralize red-orange/ gold tones (aka drabbers).
My Recommendation: Clairol 7th Stage. I've used this stuff for about 10 years. It's available at SALLY's and most BSS (usually regular BSS will sell this stuff and the activator packets for 1/2 of what SALLY's sells them for) 7th Stage was intended for those with dark resistant hair (level 1-3), has 8-10 levels of lift and double-drabbing action! ONLY use 20 volume developer and ALWAYS use the activator packets (you can use 1/2 packet or up to 3 packets). It's STRONG stuff and has a strong odor so PLEASE USE CAUTION. It can be mixed in a tint bowl or shaken in an applicator bottle. I've gone from my natural (virgin) level 1/2 dark red brown hair to a level 9 pale yellow blonde (like the inside of a banana peel) in one process.
OIL: Thes are maily liquid lighteners that you add an oil packet....it's a filler. They usually come in kits....I tend to avoid them and don't see many in the BSS. L'Oreal used to have one and Ion has one.
My Recommedation: I don't have one since I haven't tried this yet.
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GoatGoatEtc. View Drop Down
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Clap
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GoatGoatEtc. View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GoatGoatEtc. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 16 2011 at 7:16pm
What does "double-drabbing action" mean?
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RedSoxtober View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RedSoxtober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 16 2011 at 7:24pm
Originally posted by GoatGoatEtc. GoatGoatEtc. wrote:

What does "double-drabbing action" mean?
 
Double-drabbing action means it does two things: 1 It decolorizes (lightens) and 2 It cancels out (neutralizes) red/gold/orange tones. 
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brittsbee View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote brittsbee Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 16 2011 at 7:34pm

Clap*bookmarking thread*

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Lolliren View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lolliren Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Sep 16 2011 at 7:37pm
With double-drabbing, does the hair still lift like this?
http://oi40.tinypic.com/14ki3vo.jpg

Edited by Lolliren - Sep 16 2011 at 7:37pm
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