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    Posted: Nov 29 2007 at 3:53pm
so i thought i'd make a thread with the m ost important stuff/information you need to know to have healthy hair.
 
here's what you got to know starting as a newbie:
please read the other threads for information if you dont know you can ask on the forum
 
 
Basic Hair Care Tips for Newbies and others

I don't claim to be an expert on hair but I have picked up a few things about it over the past couple years from this site and a few others across the net. So here's my tips I hope they help you

1. Be gentle always with your hair the longer it gets the gentler you have to be with it to maintain its good health because the ends normally get weaker the longer they are around. So in the words of many long hair experts, treat your hair like old lace.

2. Stay in good health and you help your hair stay in good health. A good diet some daily exercise, lots of rest and drinking water are a good start.

3. Try to learn your hair type so you can find products that suit it.

4. If you use any kind of styling product reguarly then a weekly or biweekly clarifying may be in order. ( I find a teaspoon of baking soda mixed with a regular shampoo is a great gentle clarifier.)

5. A wide toothed comb with no rough seams and a boar bristle brush are usually good tools to begin caring for your hair with. (There are exceptions to this though certain hair types do better with no brushing and combing only and some hair types like mine like only fingercombing so your mileage may vary with this tip. ) On another note the purpose of using a boar bristle is the bristles gentler on your hair. Also they clean the hair strands as well as spreads your natural oil that your scalp produces called sebum.

6. Don't use hot water on your hair try to use cool or lukewarm water even warm water is better than hot. A cold rinse is said to be beneficial for your hair smoothing down the cuticles and making your hair easier to comb. You need only rinse long enough for your entire head of hair to be penetrated with the water to get the effect. Experiment and see if the cold rinse helps or not.

7. What works on someone else's hair won't nessecarily work on yours. Everybody has a very individual head of hair. Unfortunately there is no pat product or routine that works for everyone. Trial and error and paying attention to what your hair needs is the only sure way to find a routine that works for you. And it takes a lot of experimentation sometimes to so don't get discouraged!

8. Looking at your hair's condition is also a good way to find out what it needs. Are certain areas of your hair dryer than others? More prone to splitting? More moisture and better conditioning could be the answer. Or perhaps daily misting with distilled water. ( Misting is a term refering to having a spray bottle that you fill with a mixture of water, oils ect. of your choice then spray your hair with it as needed.)

9. If you have hard water and even if you don't, distilled water can be a nice treat for your hair. If you try a final rinse with it or perhaps just misting occassionaly I think you will find your hair to be softer and more moisturized.

10. Damp updo's can be very beneficial to your hair. A damp bun with your ends tucked inside to soak up the moisture is a very good thing for your hair. Even damp braiding can be good for you hair and (a plus for those of us with not very defined waves) it gives you beautiful waves. Also a damp updo feels great during summer a nice cool bun or braid on the back of your neck is a definite plus.

11. Conditioner is a useful and nessecary hair care item. Depending on your hair type and condition you will want to use more or less of it. But in every case enough conditioning is good too much can be bad. If your hair is shiny moisturized you probably have found your routine. And that's great. If your hair is always weighed down brittle very tangly. Then I would suggest a look at your products and perhaps a clarifying treatment.
In conditioner there are some elements that may coat your hair any ingredient ending in -cone ( cone is short for silicone ) and also I think that Emulsifying wax is a coating agent. Look for these on your conditioner and shampoo ingredient list. If there are a lot of cones in your conditioner or emulsifying wax then that could be causing the problem try to find a conditioner with no cones or wax. If your hair behaves better after switching it may not like cones in large doses or at all. Another possibility is that you are overconditioning. Overconditioning symptoms are usually brittle hair and tangly hair. If that's happening cut down on your conditioning or try a lighter conditioner.

12. Shampoo look for shampoo's that have Sodium Laureth Sulfate or Sodium Myreth Sulfate listed on the ingredients list. These are two gentle cleansing agents. Watch out for these cleansing agents though, Ammonium Laureth Sulfate, Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate these are harsh cleansing agents. With natural shampoos I would suggest watching out for Olefin sulfonate which is also said to be harsh on the hair. You may also wish to try a natural shampoo with no sulfates which are usually available at your local health food store. If your hair doesn't like cones watch out for shampoos with multiple cones listed.

13. Ingredients I have already listed quite a bit about shampoo ingredients and also about the two coating agents in conditioner that I know about. Here are some things to look for in conditioner.
Sorbitol and Panthenol these are called humectants they hold moisture in your hair.
Soy protein and Wheat protein these proteins and others help strengthen your hair shaft.
Aloe vera gel and amino acids, and shea butter these are moisturizers generally beneficial for the hair.
Oils are considered to be beneficial as well especially Jojoba oil.

14. Don't dissarrange your hair during showering by piling it up on your head or rubbing the length all together to spread the shampoo. A quarter sized amount of shampoo is all you need rub in between your hands gently massage your scalp with it then smooth the rest of it over your crown. Then just rinse your hair (if you have delicate ends you may wish to cover them with conditioner or simply hold the length out of the way while you rinse). You can leave your hair falling naturally down your back during washing or bring it in front of your shoulders. I don't reccommend washing it hanging in front of your face like a curtain. If you have thick hair parting it in the middle and washing both sections apart from each other makes for less tangles. You don't need to wash your hair twice usually. Try washing it only once and see what happens.

15. When you put your hair up in a towel don't toss it forward in front of your face then wrap a towel around it. Try this instead grab your hair with one hand in a ponytail at the nape then bring the length up over your head and let it rest on the crown of your head while you grab the towel. Remember to keep holding onto the ponytail. Wrap the towel and then you're done. Or do it this way grab your hair and gently lay it over your head from the side tilt your head to keep it this way then wrap a towel around it and wallah!

16. When you're trying to get the excess water out of your hair don't start rubbing it with your towel. Just simply scrunch your hair with your hands or gently (very gently! it's not a towel) twist it and wring it. When you take it down please don't start towel drying unless you have a no damage or rough rubbing method just let your hair air dry if possible. If it's nessecary to blow dry only do it so the hair is no longer wet then stop.

Alright that's all I can think of for now I hope these tips help and with all of these tips please remember that your mileage may vary.
Take care and enjoy your hair
 
The Basics
 
Protective Styles
Protective styles are hairstyles that keep your hair off your clothes. Clothes tend to be harsh on your hair, especially the ends. Protective styling is great for retaining length. Great styles are: Flexi-rods, Rollersets, Braids, Ponytails, Phony Ponies, Sew-ins, etc.
 
Stretching
Going a while without getting a relaxer. Saves money and hair.
 
Line of Demarcation
The point where the natural hair and relaxed hair meet.
 
Shrinkage
When your hair appears to be shorter because of the tight curls of your natural hair.
 
Breakage
Broken pieces of hair with no white bulb. Can be caused by too much moisture or protein. It can also be caused by poor hair care. Ouch

Shedding
Strands of hair with white bulbs on the root. Hair goes through a natural shedding phase, so don't worry if you're taking care of your hair and it suddenly starts shedding a bit. If you ARE worried, try using Garlic. It's been known to stop shedding.
 
The Baggy Method
This method is simple. You moisturize your hair, seal with an oil of your choice (I love Coconut Oil), and put on a plastic cap. You can leave on for half an hour or overnight. Your choice.
 
Texlaxed/Relaxurized
Not letting the relaxer take completely to the point of being bone straight Dead.  Basically underprocessed on purpose. Great method for those who flat iron bone straight hair anyway. I've done it before and I love it. Gives your hair some thickness.
 
Transitioning
Going from permed/relaxed to natural.
 
CO-Washing
A.K.A Conditioner Only Washing. Instead of using a shampoo, which can be harsh on your precious strands, you can use a conditioner. This way, you can wash everyday if you choose.
 
CWC-Washing
AKA Conditioner washing first then shampoo and condition again. This way your hair stays softer and more manageable after using shamppo. And makes your shampoo do less harm if it has lots of harsh products. 
 
Pre-Pooing
A.K.A Pre-Shampooing. This is a method used to give your hair some good treatment before washing. You can pre-poo with a protein conditioner if your hair hates deep conditioning with protein, or you can pre-poo with garlic and olive oil if you're experiencing breakage/shedding.
 
The Dominican Blowout
A Rollerset followed by blowing out the roots with a hot (Shocked I mean HOT) blowdryer and a round brush. I love getting blowouts when I'm stretching because it gets my straight enough for me to keep stretching.
 
Scalp Massages
Massages to the scalp that get blood flowing to help growth.
 
Bumping
Replying to a thread to move it to the top of the page.
 
The Growth Aids
 
Miconazole Nitrate
Miconazole Nitrate is an ingredient found in antifungal and yeast infection creams. This ingredient has been shown to help promote hair growth so many women opt to use it as a growth aid. A popular mixture is a tube of MN and a 1/4 jar of Sulfur 8 grease. You can find MN in Monistat and Neosporin AF. Or you can use the generic stuff. Family Dollar has a good MN.
 
MTG (Mane-Tail-Groom)
It's a growth aid used for horses but also for many women. It contains Sulfur, which is a great for growth. The makers of MTG (http://www.shapleys.com) have made a Human version called Sulu MAX GRO (http://www.suluhair.com).
 
Boundless Tresses
Another popular growth aid. It's similar to MTG with the Sulfur, but it doesn't contain Mineral Oil. (http://www.growthspecifics.com)
 
Surge Hair Revitalizer Plus 14
Yet another popular growth aid. It contains Biotin and Keratin proteins.
 
The Answers

Q: Does washing your hair really help growth?
A: When your hair's clean, there's nothing stopping it from growing.
 
Q: What's APL, SL, NL, MBL, EL, and WL?
A: These are terms for lengths where the hair reaches. ArmPit Length, Shoulder Length, Neck Length, MidBack Length, Ear Length, and Waist Length.
 
Q: What does hair need more... Moisture or Protein?
A: Hair needs more moisture than protein.
 
Q: Should you take vitamins?
A: Yes! I'm anemic so I take an Iron supplement. So far, it's helping my hair. I had loss a lot a couple years ago when the anemia was at it's worst. You can take anything from Biotin, MSM, Horsetail, Prenatal Vits, etc.
 
Q: Does rinsing with cold water help hair?
A: Cold water seals the cuticle which keeps moisture in. This helps your hair stay soft and keeps bacteria and debris out of your hair.
 
Q: Should I drink water EVERY day?
A: YES! It's not only good for your hair, but also for your overall health.

Q: Why do my temples seem revert after a relaxer?
A: The temples/edges are a different texture than the rest of your hair. Plus it's exposed to water from daily facial washing. Very drying.

Q: Which is better Lye or No-Lye?
A: Lye. Lye allows the hair to hold in moisture better. No-Lye is very drying. Although some opt for it cause it less harsh on the scalp, it makes your hair "poofy" and prone to damage.
 
Q: Where can I get stuff like glycerin/glycerine, essential oils, and vitamins?
A: Health food stores. Or online at: http://www.nutritionsmart.com
 
The Techniques
 
Deep Conditioning On Dry Hair
A very popular way of DC'ing among BHM and LHCF members is this one. Start by applying the conditioner on your roots, shaft, and ends. Put a plastic cap on and let your hair sit under a hooded dryer for 15, 30, or 45 minutes. Rinse and apply a leave-in. The reason why, in my opinion, this works is because the hair's dry and is dampened by the conditioner so it penetrates well. (SIDENOTE- This technique is best for those who can't get protein to work with their hair.)
 
Carmelization Treatment
A great way to stretch a relaxer. It's a mixture of honey, olive oil, molasses, bananas, cornstarch, water, vinegar, and wheat germ oil. You apply it like you would a relaxer, let it sit for 30 minutes with a plastic cap on, rinse, shampoo with a sulfate-free shampoo, condition, and rollerset and/or blowdry your hair and roots. Go to: (http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=66005&PN=1) for more info.
 
Dusting
A VERY light trim. Cutting only the damaged strands. About 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch. Good idea if you don't want your scissor happy stylist to cut off your progress. A stylist cut 2 inches off my hair when I asked her for a light trim. *sighs*

The Ingredients
 
Moisturizers
Whose role is to hold moisture in the hair. Usually these contain high proportions of humectants.

Reconstructors
Usually containing hydrolyzed protein. Their role is to penetrate the hair and strengthen its structure through polymer crosslinking.

Acidifiers
Acidity regulators which maintain the conditioner's pH at about 2.5–3.5. In contact with acidic environment, the hair's somewhat scaly surface tightens up, as the hydrogen bonds between the keratin molecules are strengthened.

Detanglers
Which modify the hair surface by pH as acidifiers, and/or by coating it with polymers, as glossers.

Thermal protectors
Usually heat-absorbing polymers, shielding the hair against excessive heat, caused by, e.g., blow-drying or curling irons or hot rollers.

Glossers
Light-reflecting chemicals which bind to the hair surface. Usually polymers, usually silicones, e.g., dimethicone or cyclomethicone.

Oils (EFAs - essential fatty acids)
Which can help dry/porous hair become more soft and pliable. The scalp produces a natural oil called sebum. EFAs are the closest thing to natural sebum (sebum contains EFAs).

Lubricants
Such as fatty alcohols, panthenol, dimethicone, etc.
 
The Essential Oils
 
Tea Tree (Melaleuca)
A potent antiseptic and known antifungal agent. Stimulates blood flow.
 
Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
Stimulates blood circulation.
 
Ylang Ylang (Cananga odorata)
Normalizes sebum secretion for skin problems.
 
Peppermint (Mentha × piperita)
High in menthol, this is used to stimulate the scalp. It is high manganese, vitamin C and vitamin A content; as well as trace amounts of various other nutrients such as fibre, iron, calcium, folate, potassium, tryptophan, magnesium, omega-3 fatty acids, riboflavin, and copper.
 
The Carrier Oils

Castor Oil
A vegetable oil used for thickening. Sometimes added to the drug Miconazole...... Surprise, surprise. LOL

Sweet Almond Oil (Oleum Amygdalae)
An effective emollient that mimics baby sebum.
 
Coconut Oil (Cocos nucifera)
The mother of all oils to me. It controls dandruff, dry skin, and even helps form a chemical barrier on the skin.
 
The Anatomy
 
Growth Rate
The number of hair that grows on the scalp, which grows at about ½ inch (13 mm) a month, averages at about 100,000-150,000. The hair shaft is composed of a protein called keratin, the cuticle, the medulla, and the cortex.

The Cuticle
The cuticle is the thinnest layer. It is transparent and consists of overlapping scale-like cells. It protects the cortex from chemicals.

The Medulla
The medulla is the core of the hair shaft and contains soft keratinised cells, which is key in helping to give hair its elasticity.

The Cortex
The cortex is the middle layer. It contains 75% to 80% of the hair’s protein structure. It is also where moisture and melanin (natural pigment) are held.

Hair Formation
Hair is formed by cell division at the base of the follicle, and is a part of a cycle of growing, resting, and shedding. The growing cycle can be as short as 2 years and as long as 10!
 
The Phases
 
Grow, Rest, Shed
The anagen is the growth phase; the catagen is the intermediate phase; and the telogen is the resting or shedding phase.

Hair growth cycle times
The anagen phase lasts about 3 years (1000 days according to P&G) but can last up to 10 years for some. The catagen phase can last 10 to 21 days. And the telogen phase lasts up to 3 months.
 
The Hair Types
 
2a, 2b, 2c
Loose curls.

3a, 3b, 3c
Thicker, coily curls. Alicia Keys and Tracee Ellis Ross fall into this category.

4a, 4b
Kinky, coliy hair. 4b is the thickest. Erykah Badu and Lauryn Hill fall into this category.
 
The Charts

 
The Vitamins
 
Biotin (Vitamin H)
Biotin is helpful in cell growth, the production of fatty acids, metabolism of fats, and amino acids. It is used as a natural product to counteract the problem of hair loss in both adults and children. Biotin is also used to help with seborrheic dermatitis. It has been known to cause breakouts in some.
 
Vitamin A
Helps aid in the growth of skin cells. Also helps maintain healthy skin, hair, and mucous membranes.
 
Vitamin B12
Has been known to prolong the growing phase.
 
The Colors
 
Semi-Permanent
Lasts through 8-12 shampoos. I've done a few.

Demi-Permanent
Lasts through 28 shampoos.
 
Permanent
Pretty self-explanatory. Tongue Lasts until you grow it out or recolor. A good product for permanent dying, in my opinion, is Bigen (http://www.bigenxp.com/bigen/index.php). You can find it at your local BSS.

Cellophane
A color rinse that acts as a conditioner and adds shine. Used primarily in Dominican salons.
 
Henna
A powder used in body art that is also used for hair coloring.
 
The Hair Books

The Black Woman's Guide To Beautiful Hair: A Positive Approach To Managing Any Hair Type And Style
by Lisa Akbari
Awesome book for those who are just starting out.
 
Healthy Hair Care Tips For Today's Black Woman
by Cheryl T. Moss
Get a few tips you'll never forget. Good read.
 
Beautiful Black Hair: Real Solutions To Real Problems
by Shamboosie
A little pushy with the Nexxus and Dudley products, but still a good book. Learn the do's and dont's of applying a relaxer.
 
Ultra Black Hair Growth II: Another 6 Inches
by Cathy Howse
The original black hair care book. Tons of information to help you grow your hair.
 
The Acronyms

AO-
Aubrey Organics

ACV- Apple Cider Vinegar

BC- Big Chop

BHM- Black Hair Media

BSS- Beauty Supply Store

BTW- By The Way

CON- Creme of Nature

EFA- Essential fatty acids

EVOO- Extra Virgin Olive Oil

HHG- Happy Hair Growing

HTH- Hope This Helps

IMO- In My Opinion

ITA- I Too Agree

LHCF- Long Hair Care Forum

LF- Lacefront

NG- New Growth
 
OP- Original Poster

PJ- Product Junkie
 
PM- Private Message

TIA- Thanks In Advance
 
TWA- Teeny Weeny Afro

WGO- Wild Growth Oil
 
The Neccesities
 
Moisturizing shampoo
For this I'd go with a sulfate-free shampoo. Sulfates are found in regular shampoos (i.e Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate Dead). You can use Creme of Nature which has no sulfates or many other shampoos just like it.

Moisturizing/protein conditioner
Your regular conditioner after a shampoo wash. See The Products for suggestions.

Moisturizing/protein treatment
Aussie 3 minute Miracle Deep Treatment is a moisture treatment. Nexxus KerapHix is a protein treatment. You can use whichever one depending on what your hair needs.

Leave-in conditioner/treatment
A conditioner or moisturizer used last. I always use a leave-in since I airdry.

Moisturizer (water based)
Why water based? Other non-water based moisturizers are heavy. Water based moisturizers are light which is great for your hair.

Natural/Essential oils
Natural oils like Coconut, Olive, Sweet Almond, and Jojoba. Essential oils like Rosemary, Peppermint, and Tea Tree.

Satin scarf/bonnet
For nightly hair tying.

Seamless comb
Regular combs have seams that can rip out strands of your hair. Seamless combs are seamless, so no breakage.

Plastic cap/bags or sandwich bags
For deep conditioning. You can deep condition for 10 to 15 minutes under a dryer or without heat for an hour.

Vitamins
You can take a multivitamin, Biotin, Iron, Horsetail, MSM, Vitamin B12 Complex, Hair/Skin/And Nail Vitamins, Prenatal Vitamins, etc.

Empty spray bottle
It's for your own hair concoctions. Mix together glycerin and water, MN and Sulfur 8 Grease with a little bit of Coconut Oil, etc. It's up to you.

WATER, WATER, WATER!
64 ounces a day does your hair good.
 
CONES are what make the hair appear shiny but are also said to stop the hair from receiving moisture. Popular cones are dimethicone, simethicone and I think the worst is cyclomethicone which takes more than a normal shampoo to rid th hair of it. I think when you use cones you have to clarify regularly.
 
The Products

Great Moisturizing Shampoos
Creme of Nature Ultra Moisturizing Shampoo (Green and Yellow)
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo
Nexxus Therappe Shampoo
ORS Creamy Aloe Shampoo
 
Great Conditioners
ORS Replenishing Pak/Conditioner (Moisture & light protein)
Aussie 3 minute Miracle Deep Moisture Treatment (Moisture)
Aubrey Organics Honeysuckle Rose Conditioner (Moisture)
Suave Humectant (Moisture)
Nexxus Hydra Sleek (Moisture)
KeraCare Humecto (Moisture)

Leave-In Treatments
Neutrogena Triple Moisture Silk Touch Leave-in Cream
S-Curl Instant "No Drip" Activator Moisturizer
L'Oreal Nature's Therapy Unfrizz Smoothing Treatment
Kids Organics Shea Butter Detangling Hair Lotion (Star Amazing!)
 
Great Daily Moisturizers
Kids Organics Shea Butter Detangling Hair Lotion
S-Curl Instant "No Drip" Activator Moisturizer
3/4 Glycerin/Glycerine & 1/4 Water/Rosewater
Any Braid Spray...
 
The Photo/Journal Links
Most popular photo album storage website. Almost every one on BHM, LHCF, and here has a fotki. You can have a journal, a guestbook, and links. I'm going to make one someday.

Picoodle (http://www.picoodle.com)
Can't upload pictures on forums? Here's the place to go.
 
Another awesome photo storage website.
 
Blogger (http://www.blogger.com)
Home to the hair bloggers. I have a hair blog on blogger (http://coarsehair.blogspot.com).

Wordpress (http://www.wordpress.com)
Another popular blog host. I had an account on there once and it was pretty good. A lot more pages can be added on the main blog.
 
 
 
 
for the newbies and other general information:
 
how to start? (with your regimen and hair care)
 
hair growth info: (hair techniques, hair styles, recipes)
 
 
protective styling for hair growth and retention:
 
split ends, everything you need to know:
 
 
black list products:
 
difference between lye and no lye relaxer:
 
tips for selfrelaxing:
 
 
braids 101:
 
protective styles with pictures:
 
hairstyles:
 
 
rollerset technique:
video:
 
how to ponytail:
 
how to flatiron:
 
how to do pincurls video:
 
fotki tutorials:
Self-relaxing in sections:
Londondiva
http://public.fotki.com/LondonDiva/

Rollersetting:
Macherieamour
http://members.fotki.com/macherieamour/

Partial Baggie:
Serenity Breeze (Happy Birthday SB!)
http://public.fotki.com/SerenityBreeze/

Self-trimming:
Southerngirl
http://public.fotki.com/SouthernGirlz/

Bantu knots:
Southerngirl
http://public.fotki.com/SouthernGirlz/

Pin curls:
Mars_Reiko
http://video.fotki.com/eve0287/

protective styles
Crlsweetie912
http://www.longhaircareforum.com/for...=1#post2176179

6 month stretch
SYLVER2
http://public.fotki.com/sylver2/

Maxiglide & Blowdrying
SYLVER2
http://public.fotki.com/sylver2/

donut bun
Sistaslick
www.fotki.com/sistaslick/

faux bob without scissors (protective style)
Sistaslick
www.fotki.com/sistaslick/

bun with shorter hair
Dontspeakdefeat
www.fotki.com/dontspeakdefeat/

bagging method
Dontspeakdefeat
www.fotki.com/dontspeakdefeat/

roll method for trimming
Dontspeakdefeat
www.fotki.com/dontspeakdefeat/

kinky twists
Sareca
http://public.fotki.com/Serica/

Twistout
Babygurl
http://public.fotki.com/BabygurlNC/

Wet Look
Babygurl
http://public.fotki.com/BabygurlNC/

Saran Wrap Treatment
Pre-pooing Hot Towel Treatment
Wrapping Your Hair
Blowing out your roots post roller set

Macherieamour
http://healthytextures.typepad.com/

Naturals who want to flat iron their hair
pinkskates
http://public.fotki.com/PinkSkates/myhair/
NuMe2004
http://public.fotki.com/hair2004/the-straigtening-p/
poKahontas
http://public.fotki.com/Pokahontas/s...get-my-natura/
 
 
 
 
curly hair regimens and tips:
 
 
more hair tips:
 
growth oils:
 
surge thread:
how to get thicker hair:
 
what vitamins do for your hair:
 
growth aids thread:
 
how to use mn:
 
 
 
 glycerin:
 
transitioning support:
 
whats a shampoo thread:
 
whats a conditioner thread:
 
method of deep conditioning:
 
with what do you deep condition:
 
 
types of hair conditioners and what they do:
 
water intake:
 
well water ot hard water:
 
 
 testing products:
 
 
CHALLENGES THREAD:
 
NATURAL'S THREADS PUT TOGETHER:
 
ALPHABETIZED LIST

  

Aloe Vera Juice

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=89510

 

general info/hair care

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=56639

 

Glycerin Conditioner – Homemade

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=104883

 

Henna Challenge

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=89557

 

 

Natural Albums

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=55754

 

Naturally Loosen 4a hair

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=107168 

 

mixing butters

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=89766

 

yogart & milk to loosen curl

http://www.longhaircareforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167391

 

shower/bone comb

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=106616

 

support thread (thinking about going back to relaxing)

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=90365

 

transitioners link

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=72400&KW=

 

water based conditioner w/o reverting pressed hair

http://forum.blackhairmedia.com/forum_posts.asp?TID=109405



 
 


Edited by emih19 - Jan 02 2008 at 12:45pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aggie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 29 2007 at 4:24pm
Wow Emih,
 
I know this took a lot of time to compile. Great job gurlfriend!  I wish I had the time to do all this.
 
The newbies should be loving you right now and if they are not, they're ungrateful. This point of reference would make life a whole lot easier our precious newbies and also for the rest of us who simply do not have the time to search. Besides, the forum doesn't allow us to search like we used to I think.
 
So again, thanks.
 
P.S. I think I'm gonna save this page in my favorites as my personal point of reference


Edited by Aggie - Nov 29 2007 at 4:25pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emih19 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 30 2007 at 3:25am

new information here:

 
cones:
 

Cones List

Key:
Water Soluble
Somewhat Water Soluble
Not Water Soluble
Solubility Unknown



Amodimethicone- Trimethylsilylamodimethicone- A non-curable amine silicone fluid for hair care products and decorative cosmetics. Provides water resistance.

Amodimethicone (&) C11-15 Pareth-7 (&) Laureth-9 (&) Glycerin (&) Trideceth-12-
An amine functional micro-emulsion for clear, aqueous-based hair products.

Amodimethicone (&) Trideceth-12 (&) Cetrimonium Chloride- Cationic emulsion for hair conditioning.

Behenoxy Dimethicone

Bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone- Provides excellent hair conditioning without build-up. Ideal for use in products designed to treat colour, perm, sun and heat-damaged hair.

Bis-Phenylpropyl Dimethicone- A colourless silicone fluid with high RI, low viscosity and volatility, shine enhancement and luxurious feel.

C30-45 Alkyl Dimethicone- Superior compatibility with both silicones and organics. Can be used as a thickening agent which gives a unique silky skin feel.

Cetearyl Methicone- A soft, waxy material; excellent lubricity and spreadability.

Cetyl Dimethicone- Occlusive film forming for skin conditioners.

Cetyl PEG/PPG-15/15 Butyl Ether Dimethicone- A silicone emulsifier for use in the preparation of water-in-oil emulsions. Also offers good emulsification of paraffin oils and vegetable triglycerides.

Cyclomethicone (&) PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone- For formulating water-in-oil emulsions, particularly water-in-silicone emulsions. Excellent aesthetics.

Cyclopentasiloxane- Cyclomethicone D5- Provides improved efficacy in antiperspirants and wet combing in hair conditioners.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer- Provides a unique feeling during rub-in followed by a soft powdery feel for an extended period. Ideal for cream to powder formulations.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Cyclohexasiloxane- Available in three different proportions offering low viscosity, a relatively high volatility and a cyclic structure.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Dimethicone- The basis for hair serums. Conditioning without build up.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Dimethicone/Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer- An elastomer dispersion resulting in a smooth, highly viscous gel with a unique silky feel on application.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Dimethiconol- Provides a smooth, velvety feel without greasiness. Useful for skincare and hair conditioning.

Cyclopentasiloxane (&) Trimethylsiloxysilicate- Silicone resin blended with Cyclopentasiloxane. Provides water resistance.

Cyclotetrasiloxane- Cyclomethicone D4- A volatile silicone for improving skin feel in applications such as anti-perspirants.

DEA PG-Propyl PEG/PPG-18/21 Dimethicone- Enhances the performance of shampoos and conditioners with improved gloss, manageability and moisturizing properties.

Diisostearoyl Trimethylolpropane Siloxy Silicate- Highly substantive to skin, has good lubricity and spreadability. Compatible with organic oils and waxes.

Dimethicone Copolyol

Dimethicone (&) Laureth-4 (&) Laureth-23- Non-ionic silicone emulsion for 2-in-1 shampoos.

Dimethicone (&) Trimethylsiloxysilicate- Water resistant, non-tacky film, ideal for sun screens.

Dimethicone (from 1 to 1,000,000 cs)- The original silicone 'oil'. A complete range is available from the highly mobile 1-20 cs, the popular 50-500 cs and the heavier 1,000-1,000,000 cs.

Dimethiconol (&) Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulphonate- An anionic emulsion for leave-in hair products. Disperses well in aqueous preparations and gives the hair good texture.

Diphenyl Dimethicone- A heat-resistant silicone with good film-forming properties. Used as a skin conditioning and anti foaming agent.

Disiloxane- Volatile replacement for ethanol in APs and aerosols.

Hydrolyzed wheat protein/hydroxypropyl polysiloxane and cystine/silicone co-polymers- A combination of protein and silicones that posses a complex polymeric structure which cross-links on drying to form a conditioning and protective network providing protection against blow drying and heating. They also protect the hair against environmental pollutants as well as mechanical damage and can aid temporary repair of split ends.

Lauryl Methicone Copolyol

PCA Dimethicone- Functional over a broad pH range and offers excellent smoothing, conditioning and emolliency properties in many different applications.

PEG/PPG-20/15 Dimethicone- Previously referred to as Dimethicone Copolyol. A very versatile, water soluble polyether modified silicone for use in skin and hair products.

PEG-12 Dimethicone- Previously referred to as Dimethicone Copolyol. A very versatile, water soluble polyether modified silicone for use in skin and hair products.

Phenyl Trimethicone- A very popular high gloss silicone for spray-on hair products. Also provides emolliency and water repellency in skin care products.

Polysilicone-18 Cetyl Phosphate- Color-retaining conditioner for hair products. Also offers thermal protection and a slick, soft after-feel. Excellent solubility and compatibility with most surfactants.

Silicone Resin Spheres (2, 5 & 6 micron)- Fine, white spherical particles give slip and lubricity in pressed and loose powders.

Simethicone- A mixture of Dimethicone and hydrated silica, used as an antifoaming agent. Available in two grades.

Stearoxy Dimethicone

Stearyl Dimethicone

Trimethylsiloxysilicate- A solid silicone resin for decorative cosmetics. Provides water resistance.

Trisiloxane- Anti foaming and skin conditioning agent

 

Article

One of the first things an aspiring longhair learns is that s/he is using cones. "Huh What? What are cones?" might be one of the first question the (wannabe) longhair asks.
Cone is short for silicone - not to be confused with silicon (esp. important for our foreign members)! Silicones actually consist of silicon, but I'm not going to get more chemical than that.
Silicone refers to a group of chemicals which are very commonly used in beauty products, be it your face cream or your hair conditioner. They are hydrophobic, are used as sealants and to provide slip. Those of you who have tried a drugstore face cream (usually with silicones) and an organic cream in comparison know the difference.

Silicones come in different types and their names reflect the different chemical structures they can have. In the ingredient list, one can identify silicones usually rather easily. They are called "Amodimethicone", "Dimethicone", etc. and now you can see why they are often abbreviated with "cone". But a "Cyclopenthasiloxane" or a "Dimethiconol" can be a cone too. Those are the cones most commonly used and if a product doesn't contain one of them, it is likely that it doesn't contain any cones at all. There are other cones which, unfortunately, don't have as easy names, but since I can't find reliable sources I won't add them here. There is also a claim that says that there are "water soluble" and "non water soluble" cones but again, since I don't have reliable sources and since I wonder how "water soluble cones" are supposed to work, I omit that too.
Different cones have different qualities I'm not going into here either, but I wanted to mention that.
Guess you have to ask a chemist for all that...

The second thing an aspirant longhair learns is that cones are teh evil. Usually, the advice goes along the lines of: "You are using [insert popular drugstore brand here], which is full of cones - you should switch to products without them".
Aspirant longhairs do that and their results usually are pretty good with their new routine. The tale about the cone-devil is therefore true.
Is it?
Usually the people do change more than just their products, so the good results they see afterwards are not necessarily caused by the fact that they now stopped using cones but because of many different factors which all benefit the health of the hair. Still, many many people believe in the evil of the cones and it causes quite a bit confusion among wannabe longhairs which is why I write this article in the first place.

To understand the thing with the cones, one has to know what cones are designed for and what they do.
Cones are widely popular and can be found in a very large selection of hair care products. They have many different purposes. In shampoos, they help provide slip, so it gets easier to massage the shampoo in. In conditioners, they help with detangling the hair, keeping static down and preventing breakage by smoothing down the surface of the hair which also provides shine.
It is also said that cones are able to glue split ends (temporarily!) back together.

Sounds good, doesn't it? Where's the catch?
The problem with silicones is the fact that they aren't water soluble. It varies a bit from cone to cone, but as far as I know, all require a detergent of some kind to get removed from the hair. Some cones might require a sulfate shampoo for that, other can get removed with milder cleansers as well. It seems that this is depends on the hair itself a bit, but as you surely know, when you want to grow your hair long, it is recommended that you stop using shampoo on the length of your hair. Therefore the silicones don't get removed anymore, since only water or conditioner aren't strong enough. If you now keep applying cones to the hair, you'll inevitably get "build-up". The cones build up (hence the name) on the hair and will lock out moisture from the hair shaft. The hair will dry out, gets tangly and dull - just what you didn't want! Some people also claim that silicones "hide" the damage you are doing to your locks, so you don't know how bad it actually is until it is too late. I don't believe that, but I don't want to conceal that I'm in a minority with that.

So cones are evil after all!?
Well, the answer isn't quite as easy.
The speed in which the cones will build up on the hair varies greatly from person to person and from the products used (amount of silicones in them / type of silicone - -remember, the higher an ingredient stands on the ingredient list, the more of it it contains). For me, it takes ages - I think about 6 months or so. For other people, one application is enough and their hair is gunky.
Also, if you get build up it doesn't mean that you have to stop using cones for good - you can usually clarify the hair (for instructions how to do this look through the forums) and all is well again.

The direct opponent of the silicones are (vegetable) oils. Oils are very popular among long haired people because they adress the disadvantages of the silicones. Oils can build up on the hair too, but 1) you'll notice that right away (because your hair is greasy ) and 2) oils are very easy to remove. Depending on the kind of oil (lighter oils are easier, heavier oils are harder to remove) all it takes is a good CO and the build up is gone, which is much easier on the hair than clarifying it.
Still, some people report problems when using oils. The hair gets crunchy and dry instead of soft and silky. I suspect that the application on dry hair is the problem here - the hair itself doesn't have enough moisture in it and the oil locks further moisture out. In contrast to that, silicones are usually applied on wet hair, so it is ensured that there is plenty of moisture which is locked in. Still, on some people's hair, even the application on damp/wet hair does no good.

To sum it up - the pros and cons of cones, which might or might not be true for everyone:

Pro:
- provides slip
- prevents tangles and breakage as a result
- makes the hair shiny
- locks moisture into the hair

Contra:
- is likely to build up on the hair
- cannot be removed without detergents
- can lock moisture out of the hair (obviously...)
- might not work for everyone

To use cones or not frequently ends up in heated discussions (not here of course!) where one side wins and the other loses. But, as is everything in hair care, it is completely up to you and what your hair likes - there is no ultimate answer which is true for everyone!
Maybe you prefer oils, maybe you prefer cones and maybe you like to use both, alternating or together. Don't be scared away from either one by people who don't like oils/cones for various reasons.

comparison shot thread:
 
cowashing thread:
 
stretchers thread:
 
ayurvedic hair care:
 
hair colouring 101:
 
getting rid of lice:
 
promoting hair growth:
 
damage hair facts:
 
drying products:
 
protective hairstyles:
 
chelating and clarifying:


Edited by emih19 - Feb 12 2008 at 4:44am
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aLilBirdie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aLilBirdie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 30 2007 at 8:38am
Bump!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote truequeen06 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 30 2007 at 8:42am
Wow!  Thanks for all of this info!  I can never find what I want when I search.  This just about covers everything.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote alynxx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 30 2007 at 8:52am
Thanks once again Emih for all this info...why won't the mods pin this thread!!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Aggie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 30 2007 at 10:55am
Originally posted by emih19 emih19 wrote:

aggie i made thread like this already but reorganised a lil bit and post in a new thread....bumping.
 
Okay Emih.
 
Anyways, can you find the thread about the substitute recipe for Surge if there is one? I think I remember seeing one before with all the ingredients listed in both surge and the Aphogee pro vitamin leave-in conditioner and the Fantasia IC leave-in hair strengthener treatment.
 
Someone on that thread indicated that the aphogee pro-vitamin did NOT have muccopolysaccharides in it - but it does have it.
 
I have both now and while reading the ingredients on them I learned that muccopolysaccharides found in surge are the same as glycosaminoglycans found in the aphogee pro-vitamin conditioner. I know because I did a search online and that's what I found out. You could google search it.  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote HAIR-O Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 30 2007 at 3:33pm
Bump!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote genece33 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 30 2007 at 7:41pm
BUMP!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote teendiva Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: Nov 30 2007 at 11:06pm
OMG, these is a great thread!!Big%20smileClapShocked
thanks emih!
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